Saturday, November 7, 2009

2007 tangent Viogner, Edna Valley

where pure flavor and alternative varietals intersect
The tangent name was conceived after months of laborious consideration. Literally meaning “a departure from the ordinary,” tangent is meant to convey a commitment to white wines other than the mainstream that is Chardonnay.  Made to be enjoyed with food, tangent wines are backed with lively acidity and highlight pure varietal fl avors. There are no oak barrels associated with any of the wines, nor is there a need for malo-lactic fermentation. Clean varietal expression is a tangent imperative.

Exotic grapes are not the only defining feature of the tangent line. Roguenant says that compared with what has become standard for California whites, all the tangent wines have lower alcohol levels, higher acidity, greater minerality and more varietal specificity. That means food-friendly wines that have distinct flavor profiles.

Niven's family has been growing grapes in Edna Valley for 35 years and started making wine there in 1977.  The Niven family's success with the Baileyana wines, Heimoff says, is the reason he isn't surprised that it's on the cutting edge with tangent. "They've been on the forefront of viticulture and enology in this region at their Paragon Vineyard. They are always going to exceed expectations." The 1,220-acre Paragon Vineyard offered Niven and Blaney plenty of room to experiment.

Watch a Short Video from tangent


Paragon Vineyard
A block of newer plantings (16 acres) in the Paragon Vineyard of the Edna Valley on the Central Coast of California is the sole source of fruit for the tangent Viognier. Benefiting from the cold ocean breezes and thick morning fog that burns off to allow bright afternoon sun, Edna Valley has the perfect microclimate for the tangent wine lineup. It is one of the coolest viticultural areas in the world. Fruit here ripens fully without the high sugar content that results in high alcohol levels, retaining its natural acidity.  The cool influence of the Pacific only four miles to the left, this vineyard is afforded one of the longest growing seasons in the state. Soils here are a mixture of volcanic, clay loam and rocky marine sediment, offering few nutrients. The temperate climate brings extended hang time, and the soils cause the vines to stress and strain as they grow. These two factors ultimately culminate in fully ripe, concentrated fruit that bursts with flavor.

tangent Viognier
The fruit for this wine is grown in the famed Paragon Vineyard of the Edna Valley on the Central Coast of California. Planted by winegrower pioneer Jack Niven in the early 1970s, this was one of the first vineyards in the region. The vineyard is now in the capable hands of the second and third Niven generation. They realized the need to keep step with the ever-changing wine marketplace, and have planted a few new varietals in recent years. Viognier is one of them. As the growing season here is lengthened as a result of the temperate climate, and the nearby Pacific Ocean provides a marine influence, Viognier enjoys the same Mediterranean climate as in the Rhône Valley of France.  Viognier fits nicely into the tangent line-up, as it is a vibrant white varietal whose pure characteristics stand out nicely without any need of oak influence. Additionally, it is nice to sip on its own, and is also a great match with many foods.

Winemaker Christian Roguenant
tangent wines are made by veteran winemaker Christian Roguenant, who brings more than 20 years of winemaking experience, encompassing many countries and five continents. Born in Burgundy and educated in Dijon, Christian cut his winemaking teeth on Champagne, then California sparkling wine. In this process, grapes are picked at higher acid levels than for traditional wines, and fermented in stainless steel. Oak influence is not generally used, and the finished still wines are fresh and crisp with solid acid structure. These still wines are then blended and bottled with a dosage added to create effervescence. Christian enjoyed the still wines before blending so much that he would set aside enough to bottle and pour at his own table each vintage. When John and Michael approached him about their tangent idea, he was immediately on-board and eager to get started.

Tasting Notes
If you didn’t know this wine was from California, you’d swear it was from France’s Rhone region..
Winemaker Christian Roguenant describes the 2007 tangent Viognier as “a rare example of cool-climate Viognier. It shows off the flavors of the Northern Rhone more than most California Viogniers that tend toward the more lush, tropical side.”  “Our second vintage of viognier again exhibits classic cool-climate characteristics, but is not a typical California viognier. It has a vibrant floral nose, and an elegant note of fresh white almond. With intense fruit flavors of peach, apricot and pear, it has a musky quality to it, and a round body.  “The wine sports a nice, tight mineral structure with higher acid,”

Aromas: notes of flowers, apricot, peach, pear and white almond.
Body: round
Color: yellow
Fermentation 100% Stainless Steel ferment at 55 degrees for 47 days
Barrel contact: zero
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: screwcap
Production:  460cases


Sustainability in Practice (SIP) Vineyard Certification
Some on the practices used at Paragon Vineyards

Water Conservation: 
All drip irrigation amounts are based on evapotranspiration so as to deliver the proper amount of water to the vines each week, avoiding over-watering.
Energy Conservation and Efficiency: 
In order to reduce time, use of fuel, and compaction of the soil, up to four tasks are performed by tractor equipment in one pass.
Pest Management: 
Predators are introduced to naturally combat problem pests, like the mealybug destroyer, whenever possible. Use of Category 1 pesticides has been virtually eliminated, and raptor boxes are in place to encourage owls and hawks to hunt for rodent pests.

Sources: Los Angeles Times, Corrie Brown, tangent website, WinetasteTV

Thursday, November 5, 2009

2005 Domaine André Brunel Cuvée Sabrine, Côtes du Rhône Villages

For the last 90 years the Brunel Family has been making wine in France’s famous Rhone valley region. Andre, the maker of this particular wine joined the family business in 1971, becoming the third generation in the Brunel family to follow the tradition of wine making. Andre himself has been responsible for making the wine from the Brunel Estate a renowned and sought after treat, as he has drastically improved the quality of wines, and given the Brunel Domaine a world class name. Andre Brunel’s wines have been known for the past 20 years to be of high quality and to have a very dependable production of Rhone valley wine.


The Estate today covers 80 hectares, with vineyard holdings throughout the southern Rhône valley. The Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc is produced from grapes grown in the Becassonne vineyard, which is located in Sorgues, 6km south of Châteauneuf du Pape. The Vaucluse vineyard is located on the banks of the river Aigues on the famous 'Plan de Dieu' terroir between Orange & Vaison, boasting vines of 30-40 years old. The Sommelongue vineyard is just north of Orange and some 10km north of Châteauneuf du Pape. The famous Les Cailloux vineyard stretches 18 hectares in AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 

The 2005 Andre Brunel Cuvee Sabrine, is a red blend of Grenache 80% and Syrah 20% which contributes to this wines complexity, remaining true in tradition of a typical French style wine. Also, this red blend is a Côtes du Rhône Villages wine, meaning it is considered even better quality than the well known Côtes du Rhône wines.

Body: Medium to Full
Color: Ruby Red
Wine: Domaine André Brunel Cuvée Sabrine
Variety: Côtes du Rhône Villages
Vintage: 2005
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 90

Tasting Notes:
As this wine opens up is reveals a nose of ceder and pepper. There is also a bit of vanilla, cherry, and a bouquet of herbs on the nose. The bright fruit flavors that first hit the tongue are full, yet well balanced and not overwhelmingly fruity. This wine starts out with cherries and strawberries which are smooth and silky on the tongue, nice and slightly acidic, then becomes spicy and peppery in the middle, with a very long and lavishing dark chocolate finish.

“André Brunel has always been one of the most progressive and brilliant proprietors of Chateauneuf du Pape and the good news is that he has purchased 40 hectares (that’s over 100 acres) of high-class Cotes du Rhône vineyards near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, so we can expect to see larger quantities of serious wines emerge.” Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (169) February 2007

Monday, November 2, 2009

2005 Domaine De Fontsainte Carignane


Yves Laboucarié established Fontsainte in its current incarnation in 1971 - though his family's links to winemaking in Boutenac date to the 17th century. He inherited vines, bought parcels and became a Corbières pioneer of quality - being among the first to practice carbonic maceration, harvest by hand, and age wines (using 600-litre casks). 

Bruno represents the current generation of the Laboucarié family managing their property, Domaine de Fontsainte, in the appellation of Corbières.  He took the reins from his father Yves who remains very active at the domaine. Bruno’s grandfather died this year at the age of 102.5 years, one year younger than their vineyard they call La Demoiselle. - Kermit Lynch Website

Domaine de Fontsainte is located in the heart of the Corbières’ one of the appellation’s most beautiful and beneficent terroirs. Fontsainte's intensely sunny, gently sloping, south south-east facing vineyards shelter from cold north-east winds on the flank of a 500-hectare pinewood massif. The domain dominates the landscape around the hamlet of Boutenac, enjoying panoramic views. Fontsainte’s vineyards, just 90m in altitude, benefit from a pristine environment (far from industrial or urban developments) plus alternating Mediterranean and oceanic influences.

The name Fontsainte ('the saint’s fount') comes from the nearby 12th century Hermitage of Saint-Siméon, who became the patron saint of Boutenac. Two chateaux dominated the landscape in the middle ages: Fort Haut and Fort Bas. Only the latter remains today - it’s now the headquarters of the Corbières’ winegrowers syndicat.


Body: Medium to full
Color: Ruby Red
Aroma: Initially there are hints of fresh cherries and blueberries, but the sweet earthy cocoa powder and subtle licorice quickly takeover. A well balanced red wine with delicate tannins and slightly acidic finish.
Blend: 70% Carignan; 20% Grenache; 10% Syrah
Eat with: Half Roasted Chicken or the Grilled Butchers Steak

Vineyard - Fontsainte is many vineyard parcels,(La Demoiselle, Les Oliviers, Le Four, Le Petit Nice...) each with its own particularities. The most celebrated is La Demoiselle (the official geological survey name), which gives its name to their wine La Demoiselle - its Carignan vines celebrated their 100th birthday in 2004.

Fontsainte's diversity of parcels allows us to maximize the affinities between soil type, aspect, micro-climate and grape variety - to make great terroir wines. Recent replantings - including Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache Gris - have all benefited from exhaustive geology studies of Fontsainte's various parcels' soil structure.

Since Fontsainte's establishment in 1971, vineyard work has been environmentally-sustainable and driven by the credo: "great wines are made in the vineyard". strict pruning to old vines, new vines are trellis-trained; treatments are restricted to a minimum (about half of what's typical), localized and not systematic; harvesting is entirely by hand, using small crates.

Vinification: Innovation is a tradition at Fontsainte. They were among the first to practice carbonic maceration (vinifying whole grapes) and barrel aging. For them, innovation means looking forward - with thermo regulated 150 hl stainless steel vats - and backward - with traditional 200 hl cement vats, whose thermo stability is legendary. Every possible operation in the winery is gravity-fed, the cellars were designed to incorporate this advantage. - From the Domaine de Fontsainte Website

2005 Roshambo Syrah, Borri Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley


Roshambo Winery was born of the simple idea that serious wines became, well, a little too serious. It's the brainchild of maverick Wine Hero Naomi Brilliant, granddaughter of the late and great Sonoma County grape grower, Frank Johnson. The small, independent winery was named after the West Coast slang for the ancient children's game, "Rock, Paper, Scissors,"

"Why such a small production? Well, quite frankly… we were a bit scared of it. This is a huge feral beast of a wine. It leaps at you with snarling aromas of blackberry, plum, chocolate, pomegranate, and wild game. And it finishes with a foreboding hint of smoke. Any description beyond that is best expressed in the form of animal noises. Our recommended pairing – duck . . . killed with your bare hands (insert Scottish accent)." -from their website

Single Vineyard
Limited Production
Body: Medium
Color: Deep red
Aromas: Dark berries, plum and chocolate with soft tannins and a subtle smokey finish.
Aging: 20 months in 30% new French, 10% new American,, 60% neutral oak
Case Production: Only 294 cases

Eat with: Duck Confit, Grilled Butchers Steak or Grilled Lamb

Farming philosophy
Duff Bevill owns 82 acres of vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley and his company manages more than 800 acres, including Borri Vineyards.
He has been farming in Sonoma County for over three decades. His sustainable farming is based upon grape growing practices that are sensitive to the environment, responsive to the needs and interests of employees and society-at-large, and are economically feasible to implement and maintain.



“I knew that not only would the wines have to be of incredible quality, but the winery would have to reflect a certain playful and adventurous spirit. It had to be a living, breathing artistic endeavor. My goal was to cultivate a snob-free, approachable wine culture that would appeal to people like my friends who had always assumed the grapestuff was too esoteric and exclusive. And I believe we have succeeded in creating incredible wines for those people who resonate with our passionate and free spirited approach. Roshambo has always been about a brazen spirit, a sea change, a new wine culture, and most importantly… You! I hope you enjoy the wines and can sense not just the craftsmanship and nuances of the flavor, but the personality imbued in each bottle.” - Naomi Brilliant

Frank Johnson
The grape growing history of the Dry Creek Valley goes as far back as 140 years. In the early days the agriculture centered around wheat, hops and livestock, but by 1870 French immigrants had established the first winery in the valley. A century later, Frank Johnson, a career inventor and machinist, traded in his successful orthodontic equipment company for a simpler life in Sonoma County. Having grown up on a farm in upstate New York, he always felt a strong connection with the earth and sought to become a gentleman farmer.

He purchased an apple and prune orchard that hugged the Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys, knowing that this unique microclimate would be ideal for growing grapes. He was right. Before long Frank was selling his fruit to some of the most highly acclaimed wineries, and was among California's first vineyard designated grape growers. He took tremendous pride in his fruit and dreamed of someday producing a family estate wine. Roshambo Winery is the fulfillment of that dream. Today, Frank's spirit of innovation and commitment to quality still resonates in every glass.

2007 Spann Mourvedre, California


Winemaker Info: Betsy Spann fell in love with wine when she moved to Bordeaux with her family in 1975. After returning to California, she owned a wine shop in El Dorado County, then became an independent wine broker, then helped found Lake Sonoma Winery in Dry Creek Valley. After further travels in the U.S., she met and married Peter Spann, and they moved back to Sonoma County.

Peter Spann fell in love with wine while working in a French restaurant in New Orleans, preferring Bordeaux and Rhone wines. His career continued with stints in wine retail, wholesale distribution, and ultimately his own wine marketing and sales company. In 2000, after he and Betsy married, they moved back to Sonoma County and bought the vineyard in Glen Ellen.

Winery Info:
Spann Vineyards is located at 12900 Maple Glen Road, off of Trinity Road, in the hills above Glen Ellen. The tasting room is located in the Family Wineries Tasting Room, at 9380 Sonoma Highway, in Kenwood. (This is a multi-winery tasting room, which they share with Collier Falls Vineyards, David Noyes Wines, Macrae Family Winery, SL Cellars, and Tandem Wines.)


Spann Vineyards sources grapes from all over Sonoma County, Mendocino County, and Lodi, as well as using their own estates fruit. They concentrate on Bordeaux and Rhone varietals, but also produce several interesting blends: Chardonnay/Viognier, Mourvedre/Zinfandel, and a Sangiovese based Super-Tuscan.

Wine Info:
Spann Vineyards uses Mourvedre in several of their red blends, but found the 2007 fruit so exceptional that they decided to make this special varietal bottling. The blend is 77% Mourvedre from the Silvaspoon Vineyard in Lodi, and 23% Syrah from the Durell Vineyard in the Sonoma Valley. The wine was 100% fermented in stainless steel tanks, with full malolactic fermentation, and aged for 14 months in 4-year old 59 gallon French oak barrels. The alcohol is 14.2%, and only 210 cases were produced.


Winemakers Tasting Notes:
"Our Mourvèdre has a bright raspberry aroma and taste with medium body, similar to the weight and early drinkability of a pinot noir, making this a great summer red for backyard barbeques.  

This Rhone-inspired wine was made to be immediately enjoyable but will also improve and gain complexity in the bottle for 2 to 4 years after the vintage date. Part of the reason Mourvèdre is used in Chateauneuf-du-Pape blends is for its anti-oxidant properties that give long life to these wines. As this ages more of the leathery/raspberry notes from the Mourvèdre will appear. It has a food-friendly, graceful balance between fruit and oak and matches well with salmon, pork and chicken."

Bruce's Personal Tasting Notes:
Color: Deep ruby red, with a hint of purplish hue.
Clarity: Clear but dense color.
Nose: Clean red cherry aromas, hints of raspberry, none of the bramble or tobacco notes that you sometimes get in mourvedre.
Palate: As the nose, clean red cherry and raspberry.
Medium body, with crisp acidity to balance the tannins. None of the black pepper you might expect from the 23% Syrah.
Finish: Long, soft flavor of leather, hint of smoke.

2007 Joseph Swan Vineyards, Carignan, Cotes du Rosa, Russian River Valley


"There are few more Civilized pleasures in life than good company, good food, and good wine." -Joseph Swan

The winery was named by Joe Swan when he founded it thirty years ago. Joe came to wine making from an unlikely background. He grew up the son of teetotaler parents in the farm country of North Dakota. He was an avid reader, and he happened to read about wine. Not lacking for imagination but definitely lacking for grapes, he set out to make wine. Using his mother's ringer washing machine, he squeezed the juice from some rhubarb from the garden, and, in a crock he had secreted in the attic, proceeded to produce his first "wine".

Joe really believed that, when it came to grape growing and winemaking, small was beautiful. A small vineyard could be tended by one person. Small crops led to more intense age worthy wines. A small winery allowed you to oversee every aspect from fermentation to bottling. Joe was a perfectionist and felt that if the wine was to carry his name, then he should be personally responsible for every aspect of its production.

Joseph Swan passed away in 1989, but his legacy and vineyard lives on thanks to the talents of Swan’s son-in-law, Rod Berglund. Rod became a winemaker in 1979, largely due to Swan’s encouragement. Rod is now the owner & winemaker of Joseph Swan vineyards, along with his wife Lynn, Joe's daughter.

The Cotes du Rosa started out being a "Mystery Wine" at Joseph Swan. They wanted to maintain a bit of allure by withholding the wine's grape variety. Eventually, word got out that this lovely wine, draped in bright fruit and minerality, was indeed Carignan.

Aromas: fresh red raspberry, strawberry and ruby grapefruit. lush ground black pepper, violet, ripe Bing cherry
Color: rich garnet, magenta
Body: refreshingly medium-bodied
Taste: zingy red fruit and marvelous acidity, understated yet stern tannin, rose petals and white pepper.
Case Production: 119 cases
Alcohol: 13.5%

This wine is picked late in season, around late November, from 90 year old vines from the Mancini Ranch Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. Much to my liking, this Carignan is 100% whole cluster and native yeast fermented in neutral french oak for six months.

 Another fun fact? The Cote du Rosa is pressed by the loving feet at Joseph Swan. No machines necessary! Drink young, or age to your heart's desire.

This is our 18th vintage of this wine! Over the last year we have gone to the closed stacks of the library and pilfered a few bottles to see how they are doing. The fascinating thing was that while the winemaking and vineyard management has resulted in less rustic, more refined wines over the years, the basic fruit character has remained constant. Bright aromas of fresh red berries, ruby grapefruit and liquid black pepper. In the mouth it is quite fresh, a little tight and a bit leaner than the last couple of vintages. These old, dry farmed vines and the whole cluster fermentation has delivered again. from the Joseph Swan Feb newsletter.

Saturday, October 31, 2009

2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose

Domaine Tempier has been the leading Bandol name for decades. Tempier's owners, the Peyraud family, almost single-handedly brought the wine world's attention to the Bandol appellation. Their wines have always been flamboyantly rich and powerful, but recent vintages have been sweeter and fleshier. Domaine Tempier offers an earthy, dense rosé with the texture of a red wine. A distinctly powerful style of rosé that matches well with grilled meats and hearty fish courses.

Kermit Lynch has been importing the Tempier rosé for over 30 years now.

Varietals: mourvedre, grenache
Color: bright orange pink. Almost golden salmon color.
Body: light, dry
Aromas: peach skins, nectarine, red currents, dried flowers, and smokey minerals.

The rosé is fermented in steel after a cold soak, then matured in vat for 6-8 months before bottling.

Tasting Notes: juicy red berries, pit fruit flavors, melons, cherry skins, and zesty minerals. Dry, focused and chewy, with strong finishing punch and lingering notes of talc-y minerals. Rated: 92 by Josh Raynolds, Jun 09 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Domaine Tempier is a place in Provence, a home with its winery and vineyards, its olive trees and cypresses. It is home to a large joyful Provencal family. It is a wine. And while it must be inadvertent, one of those fortuitous miracles that embellish existence (there is no recipe for it dispensed at wine school), there is a certain vital spirit that one imbibes with each gorgeous swallow of Domaine Tempier’s wine.

Domaine Tempier is located at Le Plan du Castellet. Its vineyards stretch over three different communities- Le Castellet, Le Beausset and La Cadière. The plots of land are thus far apart and require extra work. But the soil of these different areas yield distinctive cuvées -Spéciale, Migoua, Tourtine and Cabassaou - as well as interesting and complex blends for white, rosé and red wines.

Domaine Tempier lies in the heart of the vineyard boundaries. It already existed during the reign of King Louis XV, and the "bastide" was built on the family's property in 1834. The Domain has remained a family owned estate since 1834.
In 1885, it obtained recognition with a first gold medal.
In 1880, after the phylloxera epidemic had ruined the French wine trade, Léonie Tempier began the renewal by having her vineyard completely replanted on root-stocks, and a cellar built with wooden and cement vats. However, the 1929 crash caused the wine business to plunge; the vines were partly replaced by peach and apple trees.


With the passing of Lucien his sons, Jean-Marie and François, came to run the domaine. They have maintained the property's reputation, mixing traditional practices with new, but in the absence of a willing heir Jean-Marie and François, together with their sisters, decided to put the property in the ownership of a family-run company.

This was done in 2000, and Daniel Ravier was appointed as manager of the 35 hectare estate. Today it is Ravier that you are most likely to encounter, whether he is traveling abroad to market the wines, or working at the domaine. He continues to manage the vineyards, which range in age from 20 to 50 years, along straightforward organic lines, without fertilizer or other chemicals. The soil is ploughed to discourage weeds, and there is a green harvest to control yields which are typically 30-35 hl/ha.

The harvest is 100% manual and the fruit is fully destemmed before temperature-controlled fermentation. The reds are fermented in steel or today possibly also in concrete, these latter vats having been installed in 2007. The wines will macerate in vat and undergo malolactic and blending in tank, before spending 18-20 months in large foudres of varying size and also material, with some oak sourced from as far away as Austria. The end results, bottled without filtration or fining, are wines of interest which are, at all levels, worthy of bottle age. obtained from www.thewinedoctor.com

2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé (France, Provence, Bandol)
Orange rind, wild strawberry, minerals and salty sea breeze aromas jump from the glass of the 2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé and in the mouth, it has beautiful freshness paired with sweet fruit, a round, full texture and a long finish. While this doesn’t show the fruit of the ‘07, it’s a fantastic Rosé to drink over the next year or two. (91 pts.) The Rhone Report

2007 Preston Carignane, Dry Creek Valley

Certified Organic - Preston of Dry Creek is an organic family farm rooted in the agrarian traditions of Dry Creek Valley. They make broad and best use of their land by tending vines well suited to their distinctive terroir and creating limited production wines from the best and most interesting grapes.

One of the “old timer” grapes. The Carignane grapes come from both a 90 year-old vineyard and one planted in the early 1980’s. The resultant wine gives a dense blueberry/blackberry fruit, generous acidity, robust tannins, and a smoky, spicy finish. Sometimes the nose is teased with a bit of mineral, sometimes a barky sensation. Preston blends extensively with Carignane, but also enjoys its rough and tumble individuality as well.   The intense flavors and high acidity of Carignane compliment and refresh in partnership with fattier organ meats like liver or sweetbreads.


Lou Preston bought the first 40 acres (which had been planted in prunes and pears) off West Dry Creek Road in 1973. Today, Preston oversees organic vineyards and a wide array of complementary fruit orchards, olive trees, vegetable fields, livestock and poultry. Winery tractors burn bio-diesel (recycled vegetable oil from local restaurants) and most electrical needs are fed by an on-site solar power plant. 

Aromas: dense blackberry, blueberry, smoky, hint of minerality

Matt Norelli - Winemaker
An East Coast native, Matt Norelli first learned about winemaking from his grandfather who made wine in the basement of his home. Matt recalls his grandfather’s friends gathering around the barrels, debating the merits and flaws of each other’s wine.
At the age of twenty, Matt moved to San Francisco to pursue a career in music. Eventually, inspired by his childhood memories, he migrated north to Healdsburg, looking for a job in the wine industry. Seeking a position where he could experience the entire vine-to-wine cycle, he came work in 1987 at Preston Vineyards under the direction of winemaker Tom Farella.

Over the past ten vintages, Matt’s hands-on experience and guidance from many willing teachers at Preston - both in the vineyard and winery - exponentially increased his winemaking knowledge. “At Preston, our wines all have a sense of place, and I strive to incorporate that Dry Creek Valley mark along with the classic varietal characteristics.”

Matt continued his education with classes at Santa Rosa Junior College, and extension classes at the University of California at Davis. He tastes monthly with two groups of industry professionals. He is a member of the California Enological Research Association. Besides relaxing at home on the Russian River with friend and a bottle of wine, Matt likes to ride and restore vintage Italian motorcycles.

Allain Graillot, 2007 Crozes Hermitage, France

Alain Graillot founded his Domaine in Crozes-Hermitage in 1985, and rapidly became one of the most in-demand producers in the Northern Rhone for his exuberant, robust, and complete Syrah-based wines. Alain owns 50 acres of 30-year-old Crozes-Hermitage vines on the flat alluvial plain between the Rhône and Isère rivers, in well-draining soils of sand, gravel, and stones. He also has two tiny parcels in St. Joseph, from which he makes a slightly fresher, more early-drinking wine than the remarkable Crozes-Hermitage that constitutes the majority of his production.

Alain harvests by hand and works organically, employing whole-cluster fermentation and aging the wines primarily in 1-to-3 year old barrels purchased from some of the top estates in Burgundy. Graillot’s wines are structured, but still very appealing and approachable in their youth, and their longevity is truly remarkable…


Area: Crozes Hermitage, France
Blend: 100% Syrah
Average age of the vines: 25 years old (some of the Hermitage vines are now 80 years old)
Soil: Around Pont de l'Isère, the soil is formed from alluvial deposits of sand, gravel, rocks and stones.Despite being flat, it drains exceedingly well. The Hermitage holdings (just .12 hectares) are on hard granite slopes.
Average No. cases/year: 5000
From the importer Michael Skurnik’s web page/ --KL Wines

"Alain Graillot's estate is the source of some of the best Crozes-Hermitage on the market. His vineyards, on the flat plains north of Valence, produce Syrah that goes into varietally acurate, typical, food-friendly red wines. (wineaccess.com)

"Alain Graillot, Crozes Hermitage 2007 In the nose you sense the classic black pepper along with a meatiness and herbal character, perhaps hinting at rosemary and thyme. In the mouth this is a structured Syrah, acidic and tannic, delicious and long." (Ray Johnson)

Rhones Vignobles - A taste for wine, a taste for people
In the beginning, what brought them together was a taste for wine. A taste for authentic wine respectful of its terroir. And also a keenness to talk about it together to their customers in France and beyond. Then over the years - 17 already - Rhône Vignobles has established its philosophy with impeccable style, providing background music that gives the group an upbeat tempo. It is a philosophy with a natural bedrock: a taste for other people, period. They will all, without exception, tell you of the humanism that permeates the group. Rivalry is never an issue; among them, what matters is friendship, esteem, trust, sharing and emotions. They will all describe the strength they derive from moving forward as one. Alone, they would sometimes have stopped progressing or simply not have dared to. But as a group, nothing has checked their momentum – far from it! If one of them knows or implements something that another is unaware of, sharing and advising is not a problem. If one has a veteran’s experience, he will readily let the most recent arrival tap it. They travel together, discover new consumers together, visit other estates together, attend technical lectures together, taste their wines together, get together at each other’s homes to toss ideas around, party together... This is their life, and they shrug off its constraints. Is it all down to good fortune? No, just the desire to succeed as a group, as they have succeeded in their lives as wine growers. 

At Rhône Vignobles, some growers are organic and have the label, others are but do not, while others still are currently being certified. Some apply or are trialling biodynamics. Others, meanwhile, work to culture raisonnée principles. To be more precise, they all refuse to be confined by a grape-growing format. They cultivate their vines sensibly, mindful – as good, eco-friendly citizens – that soils must be respected and the environment protected. Revolutionaries, no. “Terroirists”, certainly. One day they will hand down their viticultural heritage, and not for anything would they bequeath asepticised land. They just want to see how happy their children are, breathing earth that is fresh and alive.

One of nature's activists
By the time you leave Alain Graillot, everything you imagined about him has been set straight. A hard-core organic grower? Pragmatic, rather, never accepting a label that would padlock his methods. Years ago, he was an engineer in the agrochemical industry. That part of his past subsequently saved him lots of time: no weedkillers, no pointless treatments. A self-assured man? A perpetual observer of nature, let’s say, because he feels it is “the basis of agriculture”. The previous owner of his estate worked all the vines by hand, they were well rooted. When he bought it in 1988, Alain Graillot could not imagine doing otherwise. A man backed by his reputation? Let’s say he never claims to know it all; he always listens to others, even with 20 years under his belt. With his son Maxime, now working alongside him, he has “gained and learned a great deal”. An intransigent man? Exacting, let’s say. Each morning, he happily heads off to his vines, repeating that he’s going to “make some good wine” and that he will never let down his Burgundy grower friends, “they’ve been there since day one, and we’ll never be ashamed of their help”. A partisan? Let’s say committed to keeping his freedom of choice: joining an anti-GM crop group is his way of flouting the rules laid down by the great powers of the food industry. A traditional father? Let’s say anxious to pass on his artisanal craft to Maxime, so that this ancestral farming expertise is never lost. By the time you leave Alain Graillot, you say to yourself that you have met a free man; that the earth is firmly anchored in his head and feet. - From the Rhone Vignobles website.

2005 Little Vineyards Syrah, Sonoma Valley


Little Vineyards is situated in the heart of Sonoma Valley, the 17.5 acre Family Wstate Vineyard is nestled in the Valley of the Moon between the sunbathed rocky slopes of the Mayacamas and Sonoma Mountain ranges. The vineyard is cooled in the early mornings and late evenings by coastal fog from the San Francisco Bay. As the fog retreats, the vineyard is warmed by rising daytime temperatures and underground hot springs. The vineyard soil is gravelly, well drained and descends downward to meet the Sonoma Creek.

Body: medium to full body.
Color: Dark, rich red.
Aromas: Violet, blackberry, black cherries.


Appellation: Sonoma Valley
Fruit Source: Estate Grown
Varietal: 98% Syrah
Production: 284 Cases
Alcohol: 15.1 %

The 2005 syrah put Little Vineyards on the map. It was there first wine to receive a double gold medal, along with a silver and bronze. It has become there most prestigous and popular wine.
Double Gold Medal - 2008 San Francisco International Wine Competition
Gold Medal - 2008 Dallas Wine Competition

Gold Medal - 2008 Grand Harvest Awards
Silver Medal - 2007 Sonoma County Harvest Fair

Tasting notes: 
Bright boysenberry & black cherry fruit with spicy 
lingering finish. Sophisticated yet accessible in character. Smooth texture.

Vinification: 
Grapes picked in early October 2005, gravity crushed &
 destemmed into small open top fermenters. Aged in 
mostly French Oak for approximately 17 months. Bottled unfiltered in early May 2007.



Joan and Rich Little aspired to live in Sonoma Valley, raise a family, grow grapes and one day produce premium red wines. In 1996, they purchased a 25 acre property from the Hanford Family in Glen Ellen. Since that time, they have raised four children, restored the property’s century old farmhouse, planted 17 acres of grapes. 

Eventually, Joan and Rich decided to blend their winegrowing expertise with the winemaking expertise of Joan’s brother, Ted Coleman.

In the beginning, they experimented with small lots of wine which received great praise from their family and friends. 

In 2002, Joan and Rich began their efforts to establish Little Vineyards as a small bonded winery producing no more than 2500 cases a year.

North Bay Bohemian Winery of the Week
By James Knight (2.20.08)
"Glen Ellen's most notable rock 'n' roll winery is surely B.R. Cohn, but on any given Friday, the tunes are cranking way past his olive trees at the neighbor's place. That's when Little Vineyards' owner Rich Little gets out his Chapman Stick in the corner of the tasting room and noodles out a few licks. Off the beaten track, Little Vineyards is a refrain on the small, family winery started in the late 1990s, with a few surprises, like its own recording studio and a house wine with its own companion CD.... The 2005 Syrah is a more gothic number, rumbling with dry dark fruit of the grape."

2005 Shafer Relentless, Syrah, Napa Valley

The Winemaker
The longtime winemaker for Shafer is Elias Fernandez. Elias has been with Shafer for over 25 years. He was on a path to be a great musician with a Fulbright scholarship to study at the University of Nevada but decided shortly thereafter that his roots were in the wine business. His father and mother were both day laborers and he was used to hard work. He decided to enroll at UC Davis in 1981 and was hired by Shafer in 1984 as an assistant winemaker. He took on full winemaking responsibilities in 1994 and has worked diligently to help establish Shafer as one of Napa Valley’s premier wineries. He was named best winemaker by Food and Wine Magazine in 2002. The story behind the name for this wine is that it is in honor of the winemaker Elias Fernandez’ relentless pursuit for quality.


Varieties:
78% Syrah
22% Petite Syrah
The grapes are picked, crushed, and fermented together!

Aging: The wine is aged in new French oak for 30 months
Alcohol: 14.9%

Winemaker Notes:
“The flavors and aromas are immense, round, mouthfilling and long-lived with a luscious blend of rich blackberry, black plums, meatiness from the Syrah and a dose of blueberry from the Petite Sirah. The tannins are ripe and long-lived, with a lengthy, pleasing finish.” —ELIAS FERNANDEZ

“… a sure-fire winner … the classic cassis, blackberry, peppery meatiness of this wine are beautiful.” —ROBERT M. PARKER, JR., THE WINE ADVOCATE

Vineyard Location: A small ridgetop site and a foothills site along the Vaca Mountains just south of Stags Leap District

Shafer Goes Green
There are several ways that Shafer works on sustainable farming:
Solar Power
Future Farming
Birds of Prey
Eating Machines
Cover Crops

Solar Power: In 2004, Shafer switched to 100% Solar Energy to power their operation! They are committed to sustainable agriculture – using cover crops, as little or no pesticides or herbicides, letting the harmless do their job in the vineyard to control pests that like grapes and grapevines.

Partnering with Bugs and Weeds: Another key part of farming sustainably is the use of cover crops. Today our vine rows grow wild with clover, vetch, oats, bell beans and other vegetation that creates a lively habitat for insects.
“The cover crops create a healthy environment where “good bugs” prey on “bad bugs,” says Doug Shafer. “More specifically, insects such as spiders and ladybugs naturally kill off or consume vine-damaging insects such as leafhoppers and blue-green sharpshooters.”

Cover crops do double and triple duty. They control erosion while also choking back weeds we don’t want. They control the vigor of the vine and at the end of their lifecycle they’re plowed under and enrich the soil with nitrogen and other macronutrients. This combined with our own compost allowed us to say good by to chemical fertilizers.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Whetstone, 2005 Syrah, Sonoma Coast, Guidici Family Vineyard

Vineyard: Guidici Family Vineyard – Sonoma Coast
Blend: 100% Syrah
Method: All french oak, 10% new wood.
35% Whole Cluster.
Indigenous yeast primary fermentation and natural completion of ML.
Punch downs only.
Unfined, unfiltered.
Production: 230 cases produced

Tasting Notes: Open this wine and let it breathe before serving. Cassis, violets, and bacon fat on the nose; secondary aromas of white pepper and more red fruits after a few hours in the glass. Rustic, full-bodied mouthful of red cherries, pomegranates, roasted meats, a hint of white pepper with a bit of baker’s chocolate to finish. Dead ringer for a Northern Rhone.

Wine Spectator
Enticing wild berry, plum, spice and pepper turn more austere on the finish. Vibrant and concentrated, this finishes with a persistent mix of complex flavors and firm tannins. Drink now through 2011.
Score: 90. —James Laube, December 15, 2007.


Jamey Whetstone started working at Turley Wine Cellars in the summer of 1998 when he semi-jokingly told a friend he’d do just about anything for a shot at winemaking. Over the following 6 1/2 years he would plant 30 acres of hillside vineyard, become fluent in Spanish, help manage over 200 organically farmed acres of grapes, become assistant winemaker, start his own label, and begin consulting full time. Turley provided his on-going continuing education in hands-on farming and meticulous, cutting-edge winemaking. To further enhance his small winery experience, he went to work in Burgundy for Domaine Dujac during a short stint in the summer of 2001.  His love for wine has taken him down several paths that have ultimately merged in the form of Whetstone Wine Cellars. He also produces Pinot Noir, Viognier and Chardonnay.

Guidici Family Vineyard:
Pushing the envelope on spots you can actually grow syrah while coaxing out that Northern Rhone character, Charlie Chenowith sustainably farms the vineyard. It sits on the edge of Occidental. Cold climate, organically farmed, Occidental vineyard with yields a bit shy of 2 tons per acre. Clone 877 and a personal selection from Lee Hudson’s vineyard in Carneros.

The Sonoma Coast wine region encompasses 500,000 total acres and is planted with about 7,000 acres of vineyards. Right now, Sonoma Coast’s wine country is bustling with vineyard development, especially Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. 
More about the Sonoma Coast