2007 tangent Viogner, Edna Valley

where pure flavor and alternative varietals intersect
The tangent name was conceived after months of laborious consideration. Literally meaning “a departure from the ordinary,” tangent is meant to convey a commitment to white wines other than the mainstream that is Chardonnay.  Made to be enjoyed with food, tangent wines are backed with lively acidity and highlight pure varietal fl avors. There are no oak barrels associated with any of the wines, nor is there a need for malo-lactic fermentation. Clean varietal expression is a tangent imperative.

Exotic grapes are not the only defining feature of the tangent line. Roguenant says that compared with what has become standard for California whites, all the tangent wines have lower alcohol levels, higher acidity, greater minerality and more varietal specificity. That means food-friendly wines that have distinct flavor profiles.

Niven's family has been growing grapes in Edna Valley for 35 years and started making wine there in 1977.  The Niven family's success with the Baileyana wines, Heimoff says, is the reason he isn't surprised that it's on the cutting edge with tangent. "They've been on the forefront of viticulture and enology in this region at their Paragon Vineyard. They are always going to exceed expectations." The 1,220-acre Paragon Vineyard offered Niven and Blaney plenty of room to experiment.

Watch a Short Video from tangent

Paragon Vineyard
A block of newer plantings (16 acres) in the Paragon Vineyard of the Edna Valley on the Central Coast of California is the sole source of fruit for the tangent Viognier. Benefiting from the cold ocean breezes and thick morning fog that burns off to allow bright afternoon sun, Edna Valley has the perfect microclimate for the tangent wine lineup. It is one of the coolest viticultural areas in the world. Fruit here ripens fully without the high sugar content that results in high alcohol levels, retaining its natural acidity.  The cool influence of the Pacific only four miles to the left, this vineyard is afforded one of the longest growing seasons in the state. Soils here are a mixture of volcanic, clay loam and rocky marine sediment, offering few nutrients. The temperate climate brings extended hang time, and the soils cause the vines to stress and strain as they grow. These two factors ultimately culminate in fully ripe, concentrated fruit that bursts with flavor.

tangent Viognier
The fruit for this wine is grown in the famed Paragon Vineyard of the Edna Valley on the Central Coast of California. Planted by winegrower pioneer Jack Niven in the early 1970s, this was one of the first vineyards in the region. The vineyard is now in the capable hands of the second and third Niven generation. They realized the need to keep step with the ever-changing wine marketplace, and have planted a few new varietals in recent years. Viognier is one of them. As the growing season here is lengthened as a result of the temperate climate, and the nearby Pacific Ocean provides a marine influence, Viognier enjoys the same Mediterranean climate as in the Rhône Valley of France.  Viognier fits nicely into the tangent line-up, as it is a vibrant white varietal whose pure characteristics stand out nicely without any need of oak influence. Additionally, it is nice to sip on its own, and is also a great match with many foods.

Winemaker Christian Roguenant
tangent wines are made by veteran winemaker Christian Roguenant, who brings more than 20 years of winemaking experience, encompassing many countries and five continents. Born in Burgundy and educated in Dijon, Christian cut his winemaking teeth on Champagne, then California sparkling wine. In this process, grapes are picked at higher acid levels than for traditional wines, and fermented in stainless steel. Oak influence is not generally used, and the finished still wines are fresh and crisp with solid acid structure. These still wines are then blended and bottled with a dosage added to create effervescence. Christian enjoyed the still wines before blending so much that he would set aside enough to bottle and pour at his own table each vintage. When John and Michael approached him about their tangent idea, he was immediately on-board and eager to get started.

Tasting Notes

If you didn’t know this wine was from California, you’d swear it was from France’s Rhone region..

Winemaker Christian Roguenant describes the 2007 tangent Viognier as “a rare example of cool-climate Viognier. It shows off the flavors of the Northern Rhone more than most California Viogniers that tend toward the more lush, tropical side.”  “Our second vintage of viognier again exhibits classic cool-climate characteristics, but is not a typical California viognier. It has a vibrant floral nose, and an elegant note of fresh white almond. With intense fruit flavors of peach, apricot and pear, it has a musky quality to it, and a round body.  “The wine sports a nice, tight mineral structure with higher acid,”

Aromas: notes of flowers, apricot, peach, pear and white almond.
Body: round
Color: yellow
Fermentation 100% Stainless Steel ferment at 55 degrees for 47 days
Barrel contact: zero
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: screwcap
Production:  460cases

Sustainability in Practice (SIP) Vineyard Certification
Some on the practices used at Paragon Vineyards

Water Conservation: 
All drip irrigation amounts are based on evapotranspiration so as to deliver the proper amount of water to the vines each week, avoiding over-watering.
Energy Conservation and Efficiency: 
In order to reduce time, use of fuel, and compaction of the soil, up to four tasks are performed by tractor equipment in one pass.
Pest Management: 
Predators are introduced to naturally combat problem pests, like the mealybug destroyer, whenever possible. Use of Category 1 pesticides has been virtually eliminated, and raptor boxes are in place to encourage owls and hawks to hunt for rodent pests.

Sources: Los Angeles Times, Corrie Brown, tangent website, WinetasteTV

2005 Domaine André Brunel Cuvée Sabrine, Côtes du Rhône Villages

For the last 90 years the Brunel Family has been making wine in France’s famous Rhone valley region. Andre, the maker of this particular wine joined the family business in 1971, becoming the third generation in the Brunel family to follow the tradition of wine making. Andre himself has been responsible for making the wine from the Brunel Estate a renowned and sought after treat, as he has drastically improved the quality of wines, and given the Brunel Domaine a world class name. Andre Brunel’s wines have been known for the past 20 years to be of high quality and to have a very dependable production of Rhone valley wine.

The Estate today covers 80 hectares, with vineyard holdings throughout the southern Rhône valley. The Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc is produced from grapes grown in the Becassonne vineyard, which is located in Sorgues, 6km south of Châteauneuf du Pape. The Vaucluse vineyard is located on the banks of the river Aigues on the famous 'Plan de Dieu' terroir between Orange & Vaison, boasting vines of 30-40 years old. The Sommelongue vineyard is just north of Orange and some 10km north of Châteauneuf du Pape. The famous Les Cailloux vineyard stretches 18 hectares in AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 

The 2005 Andre Brunel Cuvee Sabrine, is a red blend of Grenache 80% and Syrah 20% which contributes to this wines complexity, remaining true in tradition of a typical French style wine. Also, this red blend is a Côtes du Rhône Villages wine, meaning it is considered even better quality than the well known Côtes du Rhône wines.

Body: Medium to Full
Color: Ruby Red
Wine: Domaine André Brunel Cuvée Sabrine
Variety: Côtes du Rhône Villages
Vintage: 2005
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 90

Tasting Notes:
As this wine opens up is reveals a nose of ceder and pepper. There is also a bit of vanilla, cherry, and a bouquet of herbs on the nose. The bright fruit flavors that first hit the tongue are full, yet well balanced and not overwhelmingly fruity. This wine starts out with cherries and strawberries which are smooth and silky on the tongue, nice and slightly acidic, then becomes spicy and peppery in the middle, with a very long and lavishing dark chocolate finish.

“André Brunel has always been one of the most progressive and brilliant proprietors of Chateauneuf du Pape and the good news is that he has purchased 40 hectares (that’s over 100 acres) of high-class Cotes du Rhône vineyards near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, so we can expect to see larger quantities of serious wines emerge.” Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (169) February 2007

2005 Domaine De Fontsainte Carignane

Yves Laboucarié established Fontsainte in its current incarnation in 1971 - though his family's links to winemaking in Boutenac date to the 17th century. He inherited vines, bought parcels and became a Corbières pioneer of quality - being among the first to practice carbonic maceration, harvest by hand, and age wines (using 600-litre casks). 

Bruno represents the current generation of the Laboucarié family managing their property, Domaine de Fontsainte, in the appellation of Corbières.  He took the reins from his father Yves who remains very active at the domaine. Bruno’s grandfather died this year at the age of 102.5 years, one year younger than their vineyard they call La Demoiselle. - Kermit Lynch Website

Domaine de Fontsainte is located in the heart of the Corbières’ one of the appellation’s most beautiful and beneficent terroirs. Fontsainte's intensely sunny, gently sloping, south south-east facing vineyards shelter from cold north-east winds on the flank of a 500-hectare pinewood massif. The domain dominates the landscape around the hamlet of Boutenac, enjoying panoramic views. Fontsainte’s vineyards, just 90m in altitude, benefit from a pristine environment (far from industrial or urban developments) plus alternating Mediterranean and oceanic influences.

The name Fontsainte ('the saint’s fount') comes from the nearby 12th century Hermitage of Saint-Siméon, who became the patron saint of Boutenac. Two chateaux dominated the landscape in the middle ages: Fort Haut and Fort Bas. Only the latter remains today - it’s now the headquarters of the Corbières’ winegrowers syndicat.

Body: Medium to full
Color: Ruby Red
Aroma: Initially there are hints of fresh cherries and blueberries, but the sweet earthy cocoa powder and subtle licorice quickly takeover. A well balanced red wine with delicate tannins and slightly acidic finish.
Blend: 70% Carignan; 20% Grenache; 10% Syrah
Eat with: Half Roasted Chicken or the Grilled Butchers Steak

Vineyard - Fontsainte is many vineyard parcels,(La Demoiselle, Les Oliviers, Le Four, Le Petit Nice...) each with its own particularities. The most celebrated is La Demoiselle (the official geological survey name), which gives its name to their wine La Demoiselle - its Carignan vines celebrated their 100th birthday in 2004.

Fontsainte's diversity of parcels allows us to maximize the affinities between soil type, aspect, micro-climate and grape variety - to make great terroir wines. Recent replantings - including Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache Gris - have all benefited from exhaustive geology studies of Fontsainte's various parcels' soil structure.

Since Fontsainte's establishment in 1971, vineyard work has been environmentally-sustainable and driven by the credo: "great wines are made in the vineyard". strict pruning to old vines, new vines are trellis-trained; treatments are restricted to a minimum (about half of what's typical), localized and not systematic; harvesting is entirely by hand, using small crates.

Vinification: Innovation is a tradition at Fontsainte. They were among the first to practice carbonic maceration (vinifying whole grapes) and barrel aging. For them, innovation means looking forward - with thermo regulated 150 hl stainless steel vats - and backward - with traditional 200 hl cement vats, whose thermo stability is legendary. Every possible operation in the winery is gravity-fed, the cellars were designed to incorporate this advantage. - From the Domaine de Fontsainte Website

2005 Roshambo Syrah, Borri Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley

Roshambo Winery was born of the simple idea that serious wines became, well, a little too serious. It's the brainchild of maverick Wine Hero Naomi Brilliant, granddaughter of the late and great Sonoma County grape grower, Frank Johnson. The small, independent winery was named after the West Coast slang for the ancient children's game, "Rock, Paper, Scissors,"

"Why such a small production? Well, quite frankly… we were a bit scared of it. This is a huge feral beast of a wine. It leaps at you with snarling aromas of blackberry, plum, chocolate, pomegranate, and wild game. And it finishes with a foreboding hint of smoke. Any description beyond that is best expressed in the form of animal noises. Our recommended pairing – duck . . . killed with your bare hands (insert Scottish accent)." -from their website

Single Vineyard
Limited Production
Body: Medium
Color: Deep red
Aromas: Dark berries, plum and chocolate with soft tannins and a subtle smokey finish.
Aging: 20 months in 30% new French, 10% new American,, 60% neutral oak
Case Production: Only 294 cases

Eat with: Duck Confit, Grilled Butchers Steak or Grilled Lamb

Farming philosophy
Duff Bevill owns 82 acres of vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley and his company manages more than 800 acres, including Borri Vineyards.
He has been farming in Sonoma County for over three decades. His sustainable farming is based upon grape growing practices that are sensitive to the environment, responsive to the needs and interests of employees and society-at-large, and are economically feasible to implement and maintain.

“I knew that not only would the wines have to be of incredible quality, but the winery would have to reflect a certain playful and adventurous spirit. It had to be a living, breathing artistic endeavor. My goal was to cultivate a snob-free, approachable wine culture that would appeal to people like my friends who had always assumed the grapestuff was too esoteric and exclusive. And I believe we have succeeded in creating incredible wines for those people who resonate with our passionate and free spirited approach. Roshambo has always been about a brazen spirit, a sea change, a new wine culture, and most importantly… You! I hope you enjoy the wines and can sense not just the craftsmanship and nuances of the flavor, but the personality imbued in each bottle.” - Naomi Brilliant

Frank Johnson
The grape growing history of the Dry Creek Valley goes as far back as 140 years. In the early days the agriculture centered around wheat, hops and livestock, but by 1870 French immigrants had established the first winery in the valley. A century later, Frank Johnson, a career inventor and machinist, traded in his successful orthodontic equipment company for a simpler life in Sonoma County. Having grown up on a farm in upstate New York, he always felt a strong connection with the earth and sought to become a gentleman farmer.

He purchased an apple and prune orchard that hugged the Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys, knowing that this unique microclimate would be ideal for growing grapes. He was right. Before long Frank was selling his fruit to some of the most highly acclaimed wineries, and was among California's first vineyard designated grape growers. He took tremendous pride in his fruit and dreamed of someday producing a family estate wine. Roshambo Winery is the fulfillment of that dream. Today, Frank's spirit of innovation and commitment to quality still resonates in every glass.

2007 Spann Mourvedre, California

Winemaker Info: Betsy Spann fell in love with wine when she moved to Bordeaux with her family in 1975. After returning to California, she owned a wine shop in El Dorado County, then became an independent wine broker, then helped found Lake Sonoma Winery in Dry Creek Valley. After further travels in the U.S., she met and married Peter Spann, and they moved back to Sonoma County.

Peter Spann fell in love with wine while working in a French restaurant in New Orleans, preferring Bordeaux and Rhone wines. His career continued with stints in wine retail, wholesale distribution, and ultimately his own wine marketing and sales company. In 2000, after he and Betsy married, they moved back to Sonoma County and bought the vineyard in Glen Ellen.

Winery Info:
Spann Vineyards is located at 12900 Maple Glen Road, off of Trinity Road, in the hills above Glen Ellen. The tasting room is located in the Family Wineries Tasting Room, at 9380 Sonoma Highway, in Kenwood. (This is a multi-winery tasting room, which they share with Collier Falls Vineyards, David Noyes Wines, Macrae Family Winery, SL Cellars, and Tandem Wines.)


Spann Vineyards sources grapes from all over Sonoma County, Mendocino County, and Lodi, as well as using their own estates fruit. They concentrate on Bordeaux and Rhone varietals, but also produce several interesting blends: Chardonnay/Viognier, Mourvedre/Zinfandel, and a Sangiovese based Super-Tuscan.

Wine Info:
Spann Vineyards uses Mourvedre in several of their red blends, but found the 2007 fruit so exceptional that they decided to make this special varietal bottling. The blend is 77% Mourvedre from the Silvaspoon Vineyard in Lodi, and 23% Syrah from the Durell Vineyard in the Sonoma Valley. The wine was 100% fermented in stainless steel tanks, with full malolactic fermentation, and aged for 14 months in 4-year old 59 gallon French oak barrels. The alcohol is 14.2%, and only 210 cases were produced.

Winemakers Tasting Notes:
"Our Mourvèdre has a bright raspberry aroma and taste with medium body, similar to the weight and early drinkability of a pinot noir, making this a great summer red for backyard barbeques.  

This Rhone-inspired wine was made to be immediately enjoyable but will also improve and gain complexity in the bottle for 2 to 4 years after the vintage date. Part of the reason Mourvèdre is used in Chateauneuf-du-Pape blends is for its anti-oxidant properties that give long life to these wines. As this ages more of the leathery/raspberry notes from the Mourvèdre will appear. It has a food-friendly, graceful balance between fruit and oak and matches well with salmon, pork and chicken."

Bruce's Personal Tasting Notes:
Color: Deep ruby red, with a hint of purplish hue.
Clarity: Clear but dense color.
Nose: Clean red cherry aromas, hints of raspberry, none of the bramble or tobacco notes that you sometimes get in mourvedre.
Palate: As the nose, clean red cherry and raspberry.
Medium body, with crisp acidity to balance the tannins. None of the black pepper you might expect from the 23% Syrah.
Finish: Long, soft flavor of leather, hint of smoke.

2007 Joseph Swan Vineyards, Carignan, Cotes du Rosa, Russian River Valley

"There are few more Civilized pleasures in life than good company, good food, and good wine." -Joseph Swan

The winery was named by Joe Swan when he founded it thirty years ago. Joe came to wine making from an unlikely background. He grew up the son of teetotaler parents in the farm country of North Dakota. He was an avid reader, and he happened to read about wine. Not lacking for imagination but definitely lacking for grapes, he set out to make wine. Using his mother's ringer washing machine, he squeezed the juice from some rhubarb from the garden, and, in a crock he had secreted in the attic, proceeded to produce his first "wine".

Joe really believed that, when it came to grape growing and winemaking, small was beautiful. A small vineyard could be tended by one person. Small crops led to more intense age worthy wines. A small winery allowed you to oversee every aspect from fermentation to bottling. Joe was a perfectionist and felt that if the wine was to carry his name, then he should be personally responsible for every aspect of its production.

Joseph Swan passed away in 1989, but his legacy and vineyard lives on thanks to the talents of Swan’s son-in-law, Rod Berglund. Rod became a winemaker in 1979, largely due to Swan’s encouragement. Rod is now the owner & winemaker of Joseph Swan vineyards, along with his wife Lynn, Joe's daughter.

The Cotes du Rosa started out being a "Mystery Wine" at Joseph Swan. They wanted to maintain a bit of allure by withholding the wine's grape variety. Eventually, word got out that this lovely wine, draped in bright fruit and minerality, was indeed Carignan.

Aromas: fresh red raspberry, strawberry and ruby grapefruit. lush ground black pepper, violet, ripe Bing cherry
Color: rich garnet, magenta
Body: refreshingly medium-bodied
Taste: zingy red fruit and marvelous acidity, understated yet stern tannin, rose petals and white pepper.
Case Production: 119 cases
Alcohol: 13.5%

This wine is picked late in season, around late November, from 90 year old vines from the Mancini Ranch Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. Much to my liking, this Carignan is 100% whole cluster and native yeast fermented in neutral french oak for six months.

 Another fun fact? The Cote du Rosa is pressed by the loving feet at Joseph Swan. No machines necessary! Drink young, or age to your heart's desire.

This is our 18th vintage of this wine! Over the last year we have gone to the closed stacks of the library and pilfered a few bottles to see how they are doing. The fascinating thing was that while the winemaking and vineyard management has resulted in less rustic, more refined wines over the years, the basic fruit character has remained constant. Bright aromas of fresh red berries, ruby grapefruit and liquid black pepper. In the mouth it is quite fresh, a little tight and a bit leaner than the last couple of vintages. These old, dry farmed vines and the whole cluster fermentation has delivered again. from the Joseph Swan Feb newsletter.