Baxter Carignan, 2006 Caballo Blanco, Mendocino

One of  best kept secrets in Mendocino County is the many vineyards of old-vine Carignan scattered among the newer plantings.  The Caballo Blanco Vineyard is a prime example of the terrific quality of fruit found in these unique forgotten vineyards.  Nestled on the gentle slope leading up from Robinson Creek in a small valley near Ukiah, these vines are nearly 70 years old. Aldis and Nancy Baltins show their commitment to the quality of the vineyard by dry-farming and using Organic practices to enhance the terroir and intensity of these old vines.

Known for bright red fruit and high acidity, Carignan is typically used in its Southern Rhône birthplace to enhance blends.  However, with natural low yields and balance that come with age, the Caballo Blanco Carignan produces a wine of immense depth and flavor from this nearly forgotten varietal.  The nose is powerful and intricate with aromas of rose petal, Violets, cherry syrup, tobacco leaf.  Equally as intense, the mouth is layered with black cherry, raspberry, plum, and cola.  A rich round mouthfeel, balanced with bright fruit and acidity, give this wine the duality of being enjoyable young as well as the ability to age.  (from their website)

In 2002, two generations of our family came together to create BAXTER, highlighting the very best in North Coast viticulture. Winemakers by trade, Phil Baxter Senior and Phil Baxter Junior, produce handcrafted single vineyard wines focusing on the Anderson Valley and surrounding Mendocino appellations.

Known primarily for their Pinot Noir, the pair combine over fifty years of experience, producing wines naturally, applying instinct and using old-world techniques. Together, father and son strive to craft wines with the greatest expression of ‘terroir’ and purity of fruit, reflecting the unique identity of each vineyard source. The Baxter family purchased 24 acres on Greenwood Ridge about ten years ago, and the first thing they did was put in a winery. This is noteworthy because it’s not often that someone would buy property and outfit the winery before planting grapes. But the Baxters have a long tenure of winemaking. Phil’s father, also named Phillip has been in the wine business in Napa Valley for nearly 40 years. He first worked at Krug and then Souverain when it was in Napa and he helped start Rutherford Hill Winery, where he was chief winemaker for ten years. Phil, Sr. has had his own brand Philippe-Lorraine in Napa Valley since 1989. Phil, Jr. grew up in vineyards.

The Baxter’s entree into Mendocino County came when they leased the Mendocino Hill vineyard on Old River Road south of Ukiah. About ten years ago the Baxters found this lovely spot with a 120 year old farmhouse and a 1400-square foot redwood building.

Phil, Jr. studied winemaking at the University of California at Davis. He is Influenced by the flavors of  the Northern Rhone and Cote Roti,” says Phil, “I let the wines make themselves as much as possible.” For the most part Phil ferments the grapes on their natural yeasts and leaves the wines unfined and unfiltered. He wants to take advantage of the grapes from each vineyard and “let nature do its thing, allowing the individual fruit characteristics to shine.” Baxter makes about 3000 cases of handcrafted wines

Carignane is a grape that originated in Spain and was later transplanted to the New World. Carignane is predominately used in blending with Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre, and Merlot. This grape is noted for high alcohol, high tannins, and a deep purple color.

Donelan, 2009 Venus, Dry Stack Vineyard

Donelan

“Venus” is a refreshing, lovely blend of 90% Roussanne and 10% Viognier, once again primarily from Dry Stack Vineyard in Bennett Valley. 

Dry Stack Vineyard is a cool vineyard that ripens the Roussanne very slowly. The grapes were harvested at a potential alcohol of 12%. Viognier from Kobler Family Vineyard was added to bring a “lift” to the aromatics along with a touch more depth to the mouth feel. Those looking for low alcohol offerings will love the 2009 Venus. One would never believe that based on the intensity of flavor.  

Named after Venus, the goddess of both love and fragrance, this wine had a lot of great floral flavors.

This wine, with its aromas of beeswax, lily, and freesia, is complexly flavored but without the overbearing weight of a typical Roussanne. The 2009 Venus exhibits crisp, fresh, delicate but impressively intense notes of lychee nuts, caramelized citrus, spring flowers, fresh pears and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied with lively acidity as well as an exotic perfume and a dry, zesty style, I would recommend drinking it on the early side because of its exceptional aromatics. Great dry finish and a minerality on the back end.

The moderate 2009 season promoted freshness and structure, placing the fulcrum (point) of the mouth feel in the support of acidity. The Donelans’ describe their philosophy of tension in winemaking in the following way; “This season, more so than many recent vintages, allowed us to preserve tension without sacrificing substance. Tension is the wire from which all in wine is hung; tension without substance is tart, light, and wanting; substance with no tension can be obtrusive, if pleasurably broad. But tension with substance is structured, supple (even plush), and produces a more enticing wine than any other combination.” 

From QLI website: Not that it is a problem, but a winery in a business park in Santa Rosa really seems far far away from the multi-million dollar palaces of Napa. However, a walk into the "winery" makes you realize that there is actual work going on here. Its not just perfectly polished casks and shiny floors. People go about tasting and assembling wines and whatever else needs to be done. What you probably would not imagine is that these wines are some of the highest rated Rhone Rangers to come out of California.

However, things here started with a different name about 10 years ago. Pax was the name of the winery, named after Pax Mahle the previous winemaker. He made wines that were rather big, if not over the top and quite delicious. However, since around 2007 things have changed drastically. The name of the winery has changed to Donelan Wines, the owners' name and a new winemaker has come on board. The young man now in charge is Tyler Thomas, who makes wines that would astonish more than one of us. 

Bennett Valley & Dry Stack Vineyard

Bennett Valley's climate, soils and history, make it totally unique in California - and probably the entire new world. Bennett Valley is one of the newest and smallest AVA's in the US. The cool, marine climate, combined with volcanic soils, give the wines produced from Bennett Valley a unique personality not found anywhere else.

For 3,000 years Bennett Valley was occupied by the Miwok and Pomo Indian tribes. They lived and hunted in the area, collecting obsidian from Bennett Peak and used it to make tools or to trade with other tribes.

As European settlers grew in number (and the Native Americans were wiped out by European diseases) Bennett Valley became an important agricultural center for Sonoma County, growing a wide variety of crops- including wine grapes. it's hard to think of now of sleepy Bennett Valley as a thriving area, but in 1850's even Jack London was drawn to the area for its beauty - and its wine.

 Isak de Turk was the most famous of many vineyard and winery owners in Bennett Valley producing over 100,000 gallons of wine a year in 1900. There were twice as many acres of grapes in production in Bennett Valley in 1900 than there are now and at least 6 times as many wineries. Phyloxera and prohibition ended grape production. Most of the farming moved away as transportation improved to the point they could no longer compete with larger farms. Farm crops were replaced by cattle in the 50's and 60's and today all that is left of Bennett Valley vibrant past are the foundation of a winery, the Grange Hall, the post office building and a few other odds and ends.

Eventually grapes returned to Bennett Valley in the 1970's when Dave Steiner planted his ranch on Sonoma Mountain. though the late 70's and ealry 80's several vineyards were planted and Matanzas Creek Winery was established. There was a long lull in planting in until a mini-boom of planting occurred in the late 1990's and early 2000's.