Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Chateau de Lascaux


Chateau Lascaux was founded by Jean-Benoit Cavalier in 1984. Cavalier planted small vineyard plots in the gravelly soil that is separated here and there by swaths of bay trees, herb gardens, green oaks, and pines. Cavalier feels that the herbs add an interesting complexity of flavors and scents to his wines. Sheltered by the mountains from most of the cold from the north, but at an elevation where nights and occasionally breezes are cool, Cavalier found what he considers to be an ideal Mediterranean climate. The winery is currently undergoing a major transformation in their vineyard practices and moving towards biological farming since September 2006. The grapes continue to be manually picked and table sorted.

Chateau de Lascaux is located in the Languedoc Region of France near the town of Vacquieres. To the extreme north are the "Hills of the Languedoc" and at the foot of the Hills is the Cevennes limestone plateau, where the Castle of Lascaux spreads over 45 hectares.


The 2007 rosé is a blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 10% Mourvedre. The wine is aged for seven months before bottling. The color is like pale pink petals in the glass. The nose suggests anise, peach, cherry, and black currant. It is gentle and floral with a hint of spice. The flavor is full of young berries, wild thyme and a touch of anise. This wine has a medium finish with a creamy mouth-feel, with a final note a bit like menthol or anise again.

2007 Bugay Long Stem Rosé

Long Stem Rosé is made by the Garrett-Watkins winemaking team for John and Reta Bugay of Bugay Wines & Vineyards in Sonoma County. This amazing Rose is a 99% Syrah and just the slightest bit of Mourvedre. The alcohol level is 13.7% and the production is extremely limited at 265 cases.

The vineyards rest in the Mayacama Mountains amongst the hillside meadows. Only 40 of the 200 acres of the wooded parcel were planted with grapes. The family intended for the rest of the acreage to remain with nature. The 1200 foot elevation and the south-facing slope contribute to the overall terroir of the vineyards. The soil composition is made up of volcanic - rocky ash. The well-drained hillsides require vigorous root-stock to penetrate deep into these complex, mineral rich soils.
The use of a Bandol yeast in the winemaking process imparts a delicious Provencal nuance to this wine. The nose is crisp, pure and aromatic, and the flavors are a balanced blend of berries, fresh-cut strawberry, ruby-red grapefruit and refreshing citrus with a long finish.

“We believe the potential to make great wine must originate in the vineyard. Our most important role is to be mindful custodians of our extraordinary vineyards and surrounding habitat while insuring notability in our wines.” John & Reta Bugay, Proprietors

Pretty in Pink

While most people think of rosé as a basic “blush” wine, there is another drier side to pink wine that deserves to be explored. “Blush” is a term that is generally used to describe the sugary, mass-produced pink wines in North America, which are taken considerably less serious than other wines. While these sweet pink wines have caused many people to turn their cheek even to the idea of rosé wines, the dry rosés display a sophisticated series of flavors with a versatile food pairing potential, and also carry with them an intriguing story of how they are produced.

The production of a rosé can most commonly occur in one of two ways. One process, called maceration, is used when rosé is the primary wine being produced, and requires that the skins of crushed red grapes have contact with their juices for only a short amount of time during the fermentation process. This gives the wine its pink hue while removing the harsh tannins that you would otherwise find in red wines, where the skins remain present throughout fermentation.
The second process known as bleeding, or “saignée,” takes place when a rosé wine is cre-ated as a byproduct of a red wine by “bleeding the vats.” In this process, the winemaker removes lightly colored grape juice from the freshly pressed grapes at an early stage in the fermentation of a red wine. This process allows for the initial red wine to intensify in flavor, while also creating a lighter rosé wine from powerfully flavored grapes. Because of the tart acidity that the tannins attribute to the wine, the length of time that the grape skins are allowed contact with its juices in either method of production determines the hue and flavor intensity of the final product.

Just as important to the final flavor of the wine is the varietal used to produce it. An array of different grapes is used in various wine growing regions around the world, and each varietal brings its own unique characteristics to the blend. Grenache and Mourvèdre are common varietals used in France and usually present flavors of berries and citrus, while the Garnacha and Tempranillo varietals common in Spain also include a mineral flavor, and Sangiovese in Italy contains that of floral. Many rosé wines from America are made from the classic Rhône varietals such as Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah and consist mainly of the lighter and sweeter berry flavors. Its aromas are similar to its taste and usually include light floral scents, red berries and fruit. Generally, rosé wines are the perfect blend of a light, refreshing and delicate white wine with the tart berry flavors of a red.

Rosé wines have the best of both worlds with a balanced mix of qual
ities of both red and white wines. The presence of low to mild tannins and a low acidity level and alcohol content allows for pairings with both the heavier, high protein dishes that would commonly be paired with reds and the lighter more delicate dishes that would be paired with whites. This summertime wine is frequently paired with meats and vegetables just off the grill, and is also a great accompaniment to salads and greens, poultry, seafood, and spicy dishes. Served chilled, rosé is truly versatile and can be perfectly paired with almost anything.

Delicate, flavorfully sweet and beautifully balanced, rosé wines are a budding favorite among wine drinkers, and are becoming increasingly more recognized as a wine worthy of drinking regularly. With a sophisticated range of flavors, intricate means of production and versatile potential, rosé wines present an exciting alternative to the wine drinker as a subtle, refreshing and innovative wine.

- Jennifer Worsham


The above cartoon is used with permission from artist Ric Erickson from Metropole Paris, http://www.metropoleparis.com/

Espelt 2007 Corali

The Espelt bodega cultivates the most extensive and innovative vineyard in Empordá. Espelt opened its winery in 2000, situated in the North of Catalonia, not far from the famous El Bulli Restaurant.

Empordá is a specific DO in Spain that is becoming more well known because of the fine wines being produced and the interesting landscape. Espelt uses a large variety of different grapes (16 types) all farmed and harvested with a biodynamic cultivation. The vineyard soil is mostly sand and porous granite, which in turn provides some mineral nuances expressed in the wine.

The 2007 Corali Rosé illuminates its bright pink color, with hints of coral. The aroma is intense and smooth with ripe red fruits and the initial taste is silky and smooth, with a fine balance, that is maintained in mid-palate with a long, bright finish. The Wine Advocate gave this wine a rating of 90 points in February.

Grapes: 100% Garancha, Soil: Granite, Sandy, Production: 750 cases, Alcohol: 13%

The Empordà Region in Spain

This is a glorious region in Spain, that I hope to visit later this summer. The area is encircled by the Pyrenees mountains and overlooks the Costa Brava sea. This unique location, between the mountains and the sea, creates unusual weather conditions and an exotic climatology of strong contrasts.

Abundant sunshine, minimal rainfall, mild winters and warm summers moderated by the salty sea breeze all enhance the wine to create unique characteristics in each vintage. Similar to the mistral in France, “the Tramuntana” is a fierce wind that blows strongly from the North and is said to help keep the vines dry, regulate the ripeness of the grapes and keep them free of disease.

The viticultural foundations that survive today in the Empordà-Costa Brava wine region began when the Greeks arrived on the coast of Northeast Catalonia in 700 BC. There are a total of 2,500 hectares of vines (6177 acres) distributed over the 36 small towns in this region.
Empordà-Costa Brava's main town is Figueres.
Figueres, the town that Salvador Dali was born in 1904, is a commercial hub that is most famous for the artist designed old theatre that was converted into a large museum called, Teatre-Museu Dalí. Known as the “Temple of Surrealism”, the museum is a popular site for international visitors and also where Salvador Dali lived in his final years before his death in 1989. Empordà-Costa Brava is a region rich in beauty, history, wine and art.