As Spain’s winemaking revolution continues to flourish, one of the next hot spots promises to be Jumilla, 150 miles southeast of Madrid. Along with Quinta do Noval’s Nacional vineyard and Bollinger’s Vignes Françaises, Jumilla was one of the few places in Europe spared during the Phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800’s. Virtually everywhere else on the continent, vineyards were devastated and, to this day, can only be planted when grafted onto American rootstock.
Jumilla’s Secret. For Jumilla, the key to its vineyards’ survival was their sandy soil—which is anathema to the Phylloxera insect. As a glorious consequence, Jumilla not only has some of the oldest vines in the world, but also the largest number of ungrafted vines. Most of these vines are Mourvèdre—or Monastrell as it is locally known—one of the most prized varieties of Mediterranean Europe. And Jumilla’s summers boast hot days and cool nights, perfect for ripening grapes, while maintaining acidity.
Today, Jumilla is awakening to its vast potential, and a winemaking revolution has followed—led by growers like Olivares’ Paco Selva. He owns 65+ hectares of ungrafted old vineyards in the northern part of the appellation, in La Hoya de Santa Ana. It is the coolest sub-zone of Jumilla, with sandy, lime-rich soils that yield intensely aromatic wines, while protecting the ungrafted vines from Phylloxera.
Harvesting Late. Prior to 1998, the Selva family’s business was in bulk wine, but each year they made an ambrosial dessert wine (“Dulce”) for their own consumption. To produce this nectar, they left a few acres of vines to hang late into the Fall. Even in normal vintages, these vines achieved spectacular ripeness. But, in favored years, morning fogs caused botrytis to form, concentrating and intensifying the sugars, while giving the juice a honeyed richness. This wine was never sold. However, on a 1998 visit to the estate, Spain’s top sommelier was given a glass of this astonishing elixir to taste. He was bowled over by it and urged Paco to release the Dulce commercially. It was an immediate sensation in Spain, with top restaurants and shops rushing to feature it. Inspired by the Dulce’s success, Paco turned his attention to producing sumptuous red table wines from his priceless old vines. His first release came in 2000: Altos de la Hoya. Made exclusively from old, ungrafted vineyards, it is a phenomenal value. As its experience with these new wines grows, and with a wealth of old vineyards to draw from, there is no limit to Olivares’ potential.
Mourvedre / Monastrell - A native of Spain (where it is known as Monastrell) this grape is the second leading red grape variety after Grenache in Spain. It is also popular in southern France and growing in California. This grape grows well in warmer regions, and is often high in alcohol and tannins making it a good blending grape.
DO Jumilla, Spain - The Designation of Origin of Jumilla is located in an arid mountain valley 50 miles in land from the Mediterranean Sea in Southeast Spain. Jumilla is known for its native grape varietal, Monastrell, which produces some of the world’s most robust and full-flavored wines.
Dulce Monastrell - Fruit Source: From an 11-hectare parcel ungrafted vines planted between 1872 and present.
Hand harvested. Yields: <17 hL/hA
Blend: 100% Monastrell Mourvèdre) from the vineyard’s oldest vines
Aging: Bottled June after the harvest.
Production: 3000 cases.
From the Wine Advocate
“Bodegas Olivares’s two value-priced Jumillas are noted on the Best Buy chart at the end of this report. They should not be missed. The 2004 Dulce Monastrell is sourced from the estate’s oldest Monastrell vines. The fermentation of the wine is stopped by the addition of 2 egrees of alcohol resulting in a finished wine of 16%.
Thick and sweet, it is reminiscent of blackberry jam. The wine has lots of flavor and a lengthy finish. It is a very good value in sweet wine. Score: 92.
- Jay Miller, February 2008.
