Monday, June 15, 2009

2005 Benziger, Syrah, North Coast, California

From their website: Benziger Family Winery is creating a new definition of wine quality through its certified sustainable, organic and Biodynamic® winegrowing practices. Their 85 acre, certified Biodynamic Sonoma Mountain estate has become a research and teaching center for the cultivation of grapes with more flavor, intensity and site-specific vineyard character. The family shares its farming knowledge and experience with their longtime grower partners throughout Sonoma County.

Body: medium to full
Color: ruby red
Aromas: black cherry, black plum, tea, tobacco, earth

Tasting Notes: Initial aromas are earthy elements like tea, tobacco and herbs. In the mouth, our 2005 Syrah has dark fruit flavors of black cherry and ripe plum. This wine boasts a long finish with notes of vanilla and toast from the oak barrel aging.

Grapes for all Benziger wines are grown by one of three farming methods: certified sustainable, organic or Biodynamic. By reducing artificial inputs that mask the unique personality of vineyard sites, restoring the land and encouraging biodiversity on the farm, Benziger growers distinguish their fruit from all others. This distinction is of great importance to the grape grower who makes a truly unique product, but also to the consumer who can trust that the passion of family farming and the delicious diversity of Sonoma County can be tasted in every bottle of high quality, handcrafted Benziger wine.

Vinification:
After working through the growing season to maximize the potential of each vineyard, grapes from warm and cool vineyard sites were crushed and individually cold-soaked prior to fermentation to extract color and intensity while controlling tannins. Fermentation took place in closed-top fermentors for a week and a half with twice daily pump-overs at temperatures up to 85 degrees. The lots were aged in oak barrels for 14 months. The wines were blended and bottled in January of 2007.

Eat with: ragoût of wild boar, soft polenta, fried artichoke hearts & lemon-herb breadcrumbs.

Website:
http://www.benziger.com

2006 River Run, Carignane, "Wirz Vineyard", Cienega Valley.

Wirz Vineyard has a field blend of grapes that were planted here before 1900. The Carignane grapes for this wine are over 90 years old. River Run is a small winery, producing fewer than 2,000 cases of wine per year, operating out of Aromas on the border of Monterey and Santa Cruz Counties.

Wirz Vineyard is situated at more than 1000 feet elevation above a valley floor which is moderated by coastal weather patterns. Located on the San Andreas Fault line, the vineyard is a mixture of granite and limestone soils, bringing ideal acid and pH values to this wine and allowing this unique vineyard - grown on its own rootstock.

Body: medium
Color: ruby red
Aromas: burst of red cherry, red licorice, red plum

From their website: Established in 1978, River Run Vintners is a family operated winery located at the Southern end of the Santa Cruz Mountains near the town of Aromas, California.

Tasting Notes: It is the southernmost winery of the Santa Cruz Mountains Wine -growers appellation. It sits on a macadamized berm that is Rogge Lane, in Aromas, a berm that quickly gives way to the rich alluvial fan that escorts the curvaceous, tree-packed Pajaro River. Typical of the tolerant “banana belt” microclimate, a chimoyra tree grows in the front yard of the winery. In the backyard, various “tropical” plants thrive, including bunches of the seductive, serpentine, iridescent-yellow stovepipe plant. Honeysuckle climbs up telephone cables and small finches suspend themselves upside down.

Eat with: cornmeal & goat cheese fritters, frisée, fuji apple & green onion salad, toasted walnuts & honey aioli.

2005 Mathis, Grenache, Sonoma Valley


Peter Mathis, owner and winemaker was the head winemaker at Ravenswood. The 2005 Grenache is his second vintage under his own label. He has always been intrigued by Rhone varietals, especially Grenache, and decided to plant in the Sonoma Valley in 1999.

Body:
medium
Color: garnet red
Aromas: juicy blackberry, ripe black cherries, and dried cranberries. Flavors of strawberry and pomegranate.
Case production: 820 cases

From their website: Aromas of ripe black cherries, dried cranberries and licorice, with pomegranate, blackberry, strawberries and a hint of black pepper in the mouth. For peak aromatic intensity - allow the ‘05 Grenache some breathing time. The tannins are silky smooth and round with sweet viscosity throughout, and just enough backbone (from the Petite) and acidity (from the Carignane) to make it an ideal accompaniment to food. The wine should continue to put on weight and add fruit complexity for 4 to 5 years, and should hold up well in to the latter part of the next decade. A sign that really indicates that Peter is his own boss, are his special corks that are stamped with the saying, “I GROW IT - I MAKE IT.” Definitely a collector’s item.

Peter has 7 acres of vines on Mountain Avenue in Sonoma Valley. Low vigor volcanic soils with underlying basalt and rhyolite. The vines are influenced by the San Francisco Bay.His 2005 vintage has 4% Carignane, 11% Petite Sirah and 1% Alicante Bouchet in its blend; and it is all grown on the same property.

Eat with: duck confit, organic escarole, rice beans, applewood bacon, roasted garlic purée & herbed olive oil

Website: http://www.mathiswine.com

Thursday, June 11, 2009

2007 Cline Cellars, Mourvedre “Ancient Vines”, Contra Costa

We have had Cline Mourvedre on our list for many years; both the Ancient Vines as well as the Small Berry. The mourvedre has always been an intriguing grape, and the spicy, peppery flavors of the wine are compelling flavors to cook for. As a Bandol lover, it is wonderful to see the California winemakers strive to find the balance point to achieving Bandol characteristics with the California grapes, soil and microclimates.

From the website: In 1982, with an inheritance from his grandfather, Fred founded Cline Cellars near Oakley, California. Here, he preserved and restored many ancient vine sites to their rightful reign as premier California wine lands. In 1991, Fred and his wife Nancy relocated the winery from Oakley to the Carneros region of Sonoma County on a historic 350-acre estate with new vineyards and facilities. While much of the cool Carneros region is planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot, Fred pioneered the planting of Rhône varietals including Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.

Mourvèdre is an exotic grape found in the Rhône and Provence regions of France, Spain and Australia. It is a key component in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and has a starring role in Bandol. Once widely planted in California (where it is often called Mataro), today only a tiny amount exists and Cline owns many of the historic ancient vines that remain. Redolent of dark plum, chocolate with a hint of oak, this juicy Ancient Vines Mourvèdre is delicious now and will age for well over a decade.

Charlie Tsegeletos, Director of Winemaking, joined Cline Cellars in 2002 and is responsible for wine-making and production for the winery’s Cline, Oakley and Jacuzzi Family Vineyards brands.

The Oakley ranch, situated 40 miles east of San Francisco, is home to Cline’s Ancient Vines - some of the oldest and most rare grapevines in California that range in age from 80 to 120 years old. One hundred and forty acres of varietals such as Mourvèdre, Carignane and Zinfandel are harvested each year. While Contra Costa is typically hot, the vines around the town of Oakley are in a viticulturally blessed sector, one that experiences daytime heat and the moderating effect of the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers, which significantly reduces the temperature at night. Cline's Mourvèdre and Carignane are planted in small blocks of gnarly, head-pruned vines in sandy soil. These growing conditions heighten the intensity of the fruit and forces the old vines to struggle to produce one to two tons per acre. The sandy soil also successfully inhibits the dreaded louse, phylloxera.

Body: medium to full
Color: dark red
Aromas: dark plum with chocolate and a hint of pepper, soft tannins with a big, velvety mouthfeel
Ageing: fermented in stainless steel then aged in American Oak with a heavy toast

Cline’s Weed Control
Controlling weeds in the vineyard is vital. Competition with the vine for water and tangling up the fruit can cause problems at time of picking. Broadleaf weeds, existing mostly in weaker soils, have also been known to cause vineyard problems. To keep problems at bay we rely heavily on soil management. To assist in removing harmful weeds from the vineyards, we employ grazing sheep. Hand pulling weeds and an under row cultivator that uproots weeds are often used as well.

Eat with: veal breast stew, baby carrots, spring onions & English peas

Website: http://www.clinecellars.com/

2006 Domaine La Barroche, Grenache, "PURE", CNdP, France

I last saw Julien at the tasting this past March during the Decouvertes du Rhone. Once again I was blown away by his current vintage of PURE (having tasted the 2004 two years prior). We spoke for a few minutes and I actually asked him to marry me right in front of his mother (thinking I could only drink one wine for the rest of my life it could be the PURE for sure)! We recently put this on the list and I will be happy for anyone who orders it! (Though save some for me.)

Good words: Christian and Julien Barrot’s Domaine La Barroche burst on the wine scene with very good 2004s, and sensational 2005s, especially the out-of-this-world 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure. The Pure cuvee is made from 100% old vine Grenache planted in sandy soils in Pointu and Grand Pierre, not far from the sandy soils of Rayas. It is aged totally in old wood foudres. Robert Parker

This is indeed 100% old vine Grenache, which is uncommon for a Chateauneuf du Pape but is allowable. The wine is elegantly structured with multiple layers of fruit, spice, and classic earthiness of CDP. Intense, jammy kirsch liqueur and raspberry characteristics are followed by a voluptuous wine with supple tannin, and, as the name suggests, a “pure” style.

This is a stunningly rich, opulent Chateauneuf to drink during its first 12-15 years of life. With over 30 acres of vines in Chateauneuf du Pape, this relatively new estate, run by Christian and Julien Barrot, has served notice that they are intent on making high quality wines. The Pure has been compared to being as close to a great vintage of Rayas as one will.

Body: medium
Color: garnet red
Aromas: opulent and rich aromas of boysenberry, ganache, and blueberry, with a floral backbone

From their website: In 2002 the son of Christian, Julien joined his father and wanted to give a broader scale at the domain. He had then completed studies in winemaking and business. He wants to do something more than just sell the wines to a negociant and is a typical representative for the young well educated generation in Chateauneuf du Pape full of self-confidence and devoted to go his own way, well aware of the traditions you have to follow and thankful to his forefathers who left him fields with healthy vines. It will be interesting to follow what he can achieve with his will to work hard and his drive to do something new.

The domain has 12,5 hectares in Chateauneuf du Pape. The average age is 60 years old, but 1/3 of the vines are more than 100-year-old Grenache. This is the case for the 1,6 hectare vineyard at Grand Pierre. This parcel is free of pebbles and with sandy red soils located at the slopes. At Palestor is 2,3 hectares with 100-year-old Grenache. There are also parcels with young vines and 10 percent of the belonging is not yet in production because of the young vines.

More Good Words:
Dark, with an ample core of black cherry, raspberry and red plum fruit, layered with spice and toast notes. The finish shows nice pure fruit and minerality. Wine Spectator

Eat with: duck confit, organic escarole, rice beans, applewood bacon, roasted garlic purée & herbed olive oil

Website:
http://domainelabarroche.net/pure.html

2007 Quivira, Grenache, "Wine Creek Ranch" Dry Creek Valley

Winemaker Steven Canter arrived at Quivira three years ago from Torbreck Vintners in Barossa Valley, Australia, Canter is an American who had come to Sonoma in a roundabout way: first inspired by Kermit Lynch’s earthy, terroir driven imports from France, then wandering the world looking for the vinous meaning of life while picking up jobs as a cellarer in California, Oregon, Italy and South Africa. (Randy Caparoso)

He passionately believes pro-active organic and Biodynamic farming leads to more vibrant, better tasting fruit. He works closely with Quivira’s vineyard crew manager of 20 years, Tony Castellanos, to capture the truest expression of each varietal from Quivira's vineyards.

Wine Creek Ranch is 100% Demeter Certified Biodynamic and organic. There are 6.5 acres of greanche at Wine Creek Ranch. All the valley floor sites are a dynamic mix of clay and loam. This ranch is bisected by Wine Creek and bordered on the North by Dry Creek. Quivira is Certified Biodynamic, meaning that they go a step beyond organic. Factors such as rhythm of the seasons and natural fertilizers come into play; indeed, the methods for making compost read more like recipes than a chemistry textbook. Canter pointed out that while this is the way they feel they can best make wine and take care of the land, he doesn't think that such methods should be forced on anyone. (Benito’s Wine Reviews)

Quivira uses a 55kW solar electric system to supply 100% of their energy. Their water usage is greatly reduced by using a steam cleansing machine that uses 98% less water than traditional methods for barrel cleansing and soaking. Quivira keeps honeybees on the property to pollinate the orchards and vegetables.

Tasting Notes:
Fruit comes out in full force, mixed in a bit of spice. Freshly picked fruit, a bit of earth, mostly neutral oak.

Aromas: fruit-forward with hints of a touch of strawberry and cherries
Body: soft & medium
Color: Vibrant red tones with a touch of brick
812 cases

From their website: “At Quivira, we believe the greatest wines are first grown in the vineyard and then expressed in the winemaking. For this reason we have tied vineyard management directly to the winemaking process. Our winemaker is also our vineyard manager, and thus has the direct responsibility for managing the quality of the grapes that will ultimately determine the quality of the wine.

Since the Wendts first took control of the vineyards in 1981, the Quivira Estate has been farmed with an emphasis on sustainability and minimal impact. The Kights have expanded this commitment to include a partnership with Trout Unlimited and the Department of Fish and Game to complete the full restoration of Wine Creek, and to expand the commitment for organic farming. The quality of our wines are reflected through the preserving of the natural macrobiotic health and balance found within the vineyard environment as a whole. Through the dedicated and disciplined practice of the founding Biodynamic principles of Sustainability, Commitment, Regulating, and Attention, Quivira continues its long tradition of investing first in the vineyards in order to create truly great wines.”

Eat with: grilled rabbit roulade, carrot purée, haricot verts, baby carrots, roasted shallots & thyme jus.

Website: http://www.quivirawine.com/

2007 Bodegas Borsao Monte Oton, Garnacha, Campo de Borja, Spain

The Campo de Borja area is known as "the Garnacha land of Spain.". This is the home of Bodegas Borsao, founded in 1958 and a Garnacha (a.k.a. Grenache) specialist for much of that time. The town of Borsao is part of the Zaragoza province, and is situated between the Ebro River and the Moncayo mountain range. The region has a continental climate, defined by very dry and hot summers and very cold winters.

The vineyards of Monte Oton, which produced the grapes for this featured wine selection, sits high on the wind-swept slopes of the extinct Moncayo volcano — a sun-drenched location that's ideal for growing perfectly matured Garnacha grapes. Bodegas Borsao takes this exquisite fruit and crafts it into an elegantly textured wine with a long, complex finish.

Body: medium
Color: ruby red
Aromas: soft red fruit like raspberries and plums. Hints of darker fruit like blackberries. Slight minerality and a burst of cherry on the mid palate with a touch of white pepper.

Good Words: "The 2007 Monte Oton is 100% Garnacha. Dark ruby-colored, the nose delivers aromas of mineral, cherry, and earth notes. This is followed by a medium-bodied wine with excellent depth, ripeness and a lengthy finish. It’s a mighty serious effort for its tiny price." -Rated 88, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Eat with: veal breast stew, baby carrots, spring onions & English peas

Sunday, June 7, 2009

2007 Broc Cellars, Mourvedre "Luna Matta Vineyard", Paso Robles

Chris Brockway is no ordinary vintner. Starting his label, Broc Cellars, four years ago, Brockway is part of a new generation of winemakers that is bringing this age-old practice into urban settings. From sourcing his grapes up north and down south to using less interventionist methods, this former Nebraskan is also part of a new community of urban vintners. In 2004, he launched his label and began to produce the French-style reds that had opened his mind to winemaking in the first place.

Brockway opened his winery in June in Berkeley. He's now running a one-man show, making standout Syrahs and Grenaches in a space he shares with Sasha Verhage of Eno Wines. Audrey Sherman - San Francisco Chronicle

Body: full
Color: deep red
Aromas: chewy black cherry, red licorice, earthy, gamey
Case production: 51
Ageing: 18 months aged sur lie

From their website: This is the first vintage of Mourvedre from Luna Matta Vineyard located in the Westside of Paso Robles. Its soil is predominately limestone, with an abundance of quartz scattered throughout. Harvested from a southwest facing slope and fermented with 80% whole cluster, this wine was aged on its lees for 18 months with no sulphur until bottling.

Chris tried to capture some of the garrique of Bandol, while maintaining the minerality of the limestone predominant in the upper Westside of Paso Robles.

Small production and a thoroughly hands-on approach are two key elements in the Broc Cellars winemaking philosophy. In attempting to capture the mysterious transformation of the grape, Chris follows the life of his wines closely. He works with the vineyard owners throughout the growing season to ensure that the grapes will be at their best by the time they come in to be crushed. The fermentation process is handled in small bins, and the must is hand punched 3 to 4 times a day. The barrel program involves some new French Oak, but there is a European sensibility involved that leaves the wine with only a subtle oak presence.

Eat with: pan-roasted duck breast, parsnip purée, savoy cabbage & blood orange-star anise gastrique.

Website: http://www.broccellars.com/

2006 Frick, Cinsault, Dry Creek Valley

The owners of Frick used the proceeds from selling their 1957 Chevy to start the winery in 1976; Frick Wines are individually crafted by hand. Traditional time honored methods of wine making are employed; that include hand harvesting the grapes, punching the cap by hand during fermentation, soft pressing, no fining or filtering and aging in small oak barrels.

Cinsault is a rare delicious Rhone variety. Found as a minor component in the blends from the Rhone. This wine is 100 % Cinsault, 100% grown in the Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County. These grapes come from a small two acre plot in Dry Creek from 45 year old vines. This is a rare varietal with a small production in California and at Frick Winery.

Cinsault is popular with growers because it is relatively easy to produce and yields are high. The varietal does not need a lot of water nor a long growing season. However, the Cinsault grape does have some inherent pitfalls. Humidity is the nemesis of Cinsault. Because the grape grows in very compact bunches, rot can be an issue. If left to its own devices, the vine will overproduce fruit. Cinsault can lack distinction when it is produced in very high quantities and will make bland, uninteresting wines. Extended maceration of the must before fermentation seems to be one of the keys to making rounder, more balanced wines with Cinsault. calwineries.com

Body: medium to full
Color: dark ruby
Aromas: fresh strawberries and red cherries, cherry cola, lightly floral, spice on the finish
Case production: 390 cases

From their website: Tasting
Notes: Fresh berry, strawberry and spice flavors. Lingering, medium-full body. A fresh red wine with a great personality. Strawberry-cherry fruit character, spice on the finish. The wine is very versatile, fun and easy to drink and very accessible and likable. The complexity and abundance of fruit and soft tannins is the wonderful character of the wine.
The Vineyard: On A high, dry, western bench of Dry Creek Valley, the head pruned Cinsault vines grow in a medium red, dusty clay soil. Covering only 2 acres, the old vines yield a small amount of this fragrant, fruity grape for Frick Cinsault.

Eat with: duck confit, garlic & parsley roasted French fingerling potatoes, frisée salad

Website: http://www.frickwinery.com/

2006 Unti, Grenache, Dry Creek Valley

Like the Rhone winemakers, Mick Unti chooses to blend in Syrah and Mourvedre into his predominantly Grenache based wine to add depth, color, and complexity. He likens this vintage of Grenache to a Gigondas with high fruit tones and lots of pepper.

In 2004, the Untis began using biodynamic vineyard practices designed to make the vines more self-sustaining and adaptive to their natural environment.

Body: medium
Color: garnet red
Aromas: raspberry, blackberry, tar, licorice, pepper, dried herbs
Varietal: 77% Grenache, 17% Syrah, 6% Mourvedre
Case production: 990

From their website:
VARIETAL & VINEYARD: This Southern Rhône-style wine is from the creekside vineyards planted in 1998. The primary component of this blend comes from a 2.9 acre block, planted to three clones of Grenache Noir. The bud-wood comes from Tablas Creek and Alban Vineyards. These clones, selected from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, give darker color and better structure than the majority of Grenache planted in California.

VINTAGE/HARVEST: The late growing season forced them to patiently wait until the grapes were very ripe, or as the French would say, surmaturite, which is when Grenache develops its most interesting flavors.

VINIFICATION: Thirty percent of this wine was fermented using whole clusters. Retaining the stems helped provide bright fruit and pepper aromas. The wine was aged in 620 gallon foudres, which are commonly used in the Rhône. These large barrels preserve the vineyard character by minimizing both oak extraction and oxidation. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered.

STYLE/DESCRIPTION: The 2006 is more like a Gigondas – meaning it has higher tone fruit and pepper with bright acidity. It has intense aromatics of raspberry, blackberry, tar, pepper, licorice, and dried herbs. Fruit forward, this Grenache has the stuff to last at least 3 to five years, but should really start showing well in two years. written by Mick

Eat with:
charcuterie platter. pâté, rillettes and terrine.

Website: http://www.untivineyards.com/

Here is a link to an interesting twelve week Cellar Rat wine experience with journalist Ella Lawrence at Unti Vineyards:

http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2008/09/cellar_rat_week_one_at_unti_vi.php

2006 Elizabeth Spencer, Grenache, Mendocino County

Elizabeth Pressler and Spencer Graham, husband and wife, formed Elizabeth Spencer in 1998.

The Grenache is from a single vineyard with very stony soils located in Mendocino just east of Ukiah. Due to the rough terrain, the vines struggle through the growing season creating grape clusters with very tiny berries yet full of exuberant aromatics and flavors. The soils here are a textbook example of the theory proving that growing vinifera fruit in rugged terroir does achieve the fullest, most complex components in the resultant wine.

Body: medium
Color: deep garnet
Aromas: black cherry, black tea, lilac, white pepper, raspberry, spice
Varietal Blend: 95% Grenache, 5% Durif
Case production: 350 cases
Ageing: 14 months used and new French oak

From their website: The wine is supple and round on the entry, with grip and texture building beneath layers of ripe plum, Bing cherry. This mouth-filling wine is firm and refreshing on the finish.

Winemaking: Grapes were hand-harvested in late October, removed from the stems and placed in a small open-top tank. After light maceration, the skins and the pulp sat together for six days prior to fermentation in order to extract as much of the bright fruit flavors as possible. Native yeasts were encouraged, and the wine was punched down by hand, pressed just before dryness and moved to barrel to complete fermentation. Barrel-aged for 14 months, the tannins integrated seamlessly with the body of the wine prior to bottling.

Eat with: charcuterie platter, pâté, rillettes and terrine.

Website: http://www.elizabethspencerwines.com/

2007 Westwood 4-Part Rose, Sonoma Valley

A dry pink wine that is called 4-Part Rosé, produced from saignée de cuvee of our Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise and Syrah grapes.

John M. Kelly, Sonoma - Trained as a biochemist, he has been professionally active in the wine industry since 1986. He started as the Westwood Winery winemaker and general manager in 1994, and became an owner/partner of the Annadel Estate Vineyard in 1998.

Varietal: 51%Grenache, 27%mourvedre, 13% Counoise, 10% Syrah
Case production: 48 cases
Body: medium
Color: salmon pink
Aromas: strawberry, rhubarb, lemon, melon, hints of white pepper and spice

From the website: Counoise, part of this blend, is usually seen as a blending grape in Rhone. It is used primarily for its high acidity and spice and pepper aromas. The 4 part rose is made in the saigneé method which involves bleeding off a portion of red wine after a short amount of contact with the must. John Kelly, winemaker and owner, boasts that this wine is extremely versatile with food and has the capacity to age.

There is a unique combination of soils and exposures at Annadel Estate Vineyards. Because of the diversity of soils and meso-climates at the site they decided to expand the range of wines offered under the Westwood label. In the warmer terroirs we planted an unusual selection of red Rhône varieties: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Counoise.

Westwood Winery was among the first vineyards to purchase California-certified Chateau Beaucastel budwood from Tablas Creek nursery, including two clones of Grenache, as well as Mourvedre and Counoise (a virtually unknown red grape approved for the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation). All of these Rhone varietals, particularly the late-ripening Mourvedre, are planted in the warmer upslope areas of the vineyard on the weaker, shallower soils.

Good words: The 2007 Annadel Estate 4-Part Rosé is barrel-fermented dry in the manner of Chardonnay, making an unusually rich and complex rosé with notes of toast. James Knight, North Bay Bohemian

In 1998, Kelly formed a new partnership and purchased a 37-acre parcel at the northwest end of the Sonoma Valley, starting Westwood’s shift to a Sonoma Valley brand. With the 2000 vintage, he began sourcing fruit from that area, and in 2002 Kelly finally assumed the winery’s ownership. Westwood’s production moved from Shingle Springs to just south of Sonoma in 2005, near the then-newly-opened Tasting Salon, and the first wines from Westwood’s own Annadel Estate Vineyard were produced later that same year.Westwood produces 750 to 2000 cases annually. Kelly matter-of-factly states that he’s “producing a living thing, not a beverage. The wine has to be what it’s going to be. I don’t let my philosophy get in the way of good winemaking. I do as the situation dictates.” He prides himself on the fact that “no matter when you open [a bottle of Westwood], you will be happy with it,” believing that “a wine’s got to taste good when it’s young to taste good when it’s old.” by Brittany Cohen winecountrythisweek.com

Eat with: grilled rabbit roulade, carrot purée, haricot verts, baby carrots, roasted shallots & thyme jus

Website: http://www.westwoodwine.com/

Friday, June 5, 2009

2008 Maison Bouachon, Le Rouviere, Tavel

The name “La Rouvière” comes from the Provencal word “Rouve” meaning a little stream. The Maison Bouachon “La Rouvière” is one of the best representatives Rosé in the appellation. This Tavel is made from both white and red grapes, all of which are carefully picked and sorted, vinified separately, and then blended for the final product.

The vineyard is planted in a sunny area and exposed to the ‘mistral’. Vines are planted on two kinds of soil, the first is covered by Lauzes (white limestone), and the other one is clay covered by round quartzite stones. Clay permits a slow and regular restitution of useful water for grape berries elaboration.

The processing consists in selection of parcels: old Grenache (70 years old) and others younger (30-40 years old), best exposures, low yields. Grapes are harvested by hand and rigorously sorted out. Each grape variety is vinified separately after total de-stemming. Berries macerate 12 to 24 hours for an optimum extraction of aroma and color. The alcoholic fermentation keeps going from 8 to 10 days with slow temperature (between 18 to 20 degrees).

Varietals: 50% Grenache, 15% Bourboulanc, 10% Cinsault, Carignane, Clairette

Body: light to medium
Color: raspberry pink
Aromas: raspberry, red currant, pink grapefruit, white flower

From their website: In 1898 Maison Bouachon the winery was born. This family started out as barrel makers in Chateauneuf-du-Pape before deciding to actually fill the barrels with wine.

During the first half of the 20th century, Maison Bouachon was immersed in the viticultural tradition of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Over time, the Maison became familiar with the diversity of regional vines and terroirs while establishing strong ties with local winegrowers. Having gained a foothold in the region, Maison Bouachon continued developing its winemaking skill with the acquisition of barrel chais during the 50s: this included mastering the vinification process as well as perfecting the delicate art of blending and the aging.

Good words: “France has a long tradition of rosé, particularly in the south. The southern Rhone even has an appellation devoted to rosé: Tavel. A good example is the 2008 Maison Bouachon "La Rouviere" Tavel, with its bright raspberry and cranberry flavors and hints of watermelon and white pepper. By Laurie Daniel for the Mercury News 06/09

Eat with: duck confit, garlic & parsley roasted French fingerling potatoes, frisée salad

Website:
http://www.maisonbouachon.com/

2007 Kunde Viognier, Sonoma Valley

In October 2004, three-generations of the Kunde family gathered with friends to celebrate their 100th harvest. As they enter the next century of winegrowing, the fourth and fifth generation family members remain hands-on proprietors. They now oversee an operation comprised of our state-of-the-art winemaking facility and 1,850 contiguous acres, of which 700 acres are planted to more than twenty different varieties of wine grapes.

Family owned and operated for five generations, Kunde Family Estate produces ultra-premium, 100% estate-grown wines in Northern California's renowned Sonoma Valley. The family is committed to the creation of wines that are unique to their land, while farmed with an ethical and sustainable pedigree. The Kunde family is committed to continue this journey, through all the generations, to sustainable stewardship of their venerable estate.

Aromas: peach, flowers, jasmine, orange marmalade, a hint of pepper
Body: medium
Color: golden yellow

From their website: Harvest/Winemaking: The Viognier grapes were harvested from August 23 through September 18 at an average Brix of 25.6°. Viognier ripens fairly early in Sonoma Valley, and some extra warm weather in August and early September got us off to an early start. We achieved full ripeness of flavor without excessive alcohol. 15% of the blend was fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures. 85% was fermented in seasoned barrels (no new oak) and aged on the lees with no stirring. The wine was aged for 7 months in a combination of seasoned oak barrels and stainless steel tanks.

Winemaker's Comments:
Exotic, heady aromas of ripe peach, spice, and flowers greet your senses, followed by the taste of orange marmalade, pepper, and the lingering scent of jasmine. Tim Bell, Winemaker

Good words: 90 Points “Kunde’s been on a consistent roll for years in crafting rich, balanced Viogniers. Their 2007 is crisp and ripe, offering a blast of tropical fruit, honeysuckle, vanilla and spice flavors that finish impressively long. Steve Heimoff – Wine Enthusiast, 3/09

Eat with: roasted Sonoma County half chicken, baby yukon gold potatoes, watercress salad, dijon vinaigrette

Website: http://www.kunde.com/

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

2007 Graham Beck Viognier, South Africa

Graham Beck Wines is now entering its third generation as a family winery. It was established in 1983 when entrepreneur Graham Beck purchased Madeba farm outside the Western Cape town of Robertson with a fervent ambition to establish a world-class winery in this region. The success of the Robertson winery has been extended to the second Graham Beck cellar in Franschhoek, one of the oldest wine-making regions in South Africa.

The success of Graham Beck Wines can be attributed to passion, commitment, skill and access to the finest quality grapes. But most of all it can be attributed to the vision of one man – Graham Beck. Graham Beck wines were served at Nelson Mandela’s inauguration party. This viognier is very different in style to a California Viognier. Less floral and intense honeysuckle and more stone fruit and minerality.

Aromas: apricot, peach, mineral, light floral notes
Body: medium
Color: golden yellow

From the website: 7 year old vineyards from our Robertson estate. Grapes were harvested by hand in the 3rd week of February in Robertson. 60% of the grapes were fermented in 3rd fill French oak barrels and the other 40% in stainless steel tanks. The portion in barrel spent 2 months on the primary lees for a creamy texture, and was left to mature for a further 3 months in barrel before it was blended with the stainless steel tank portion prior to bottling.

Tasting Notes: “A wine with a soft golden hue. A nose rich with peaches and cream, and ripe apricots dusted with icing sugar. An elegant entry supported by a crisp acidity gives delicate weight but huge flavours of pineapples and pears with dried apricots on the finish completing the circle.”

Eat with: beet & feta salad, olive oil & herb marinated feta, pickled vegetables, upland cress & yellow beet vinaigrette

Website:
http://www.grahambeckwines.com/

2007 Imagery Estate Winery Viognier, Russian River Valley

Imagery Estate Winery is owned by the Benziger family who is dedicated to Biodynamic farming practices and has made wine in the Sonoma Valley since 1980. “Dedicated to crafting small quantities of rare wines from uncommon varieties and character rich vineyards, Imagery Estate Winery was born of a thirst for experimentation and willingness to take risks.”

The first Imagery wines were introduced in 1985, at a time when Winemaker Joe Benziger's family was forging the fighting varietals category with their Benziger brand. Despite the demands of producing wildly popular value wines, the Benzigers' indefatigable desire to experiment inspired and energized the winemaking team, who were given exceptional blocks of fruit, over which they had complete creative freedom. The best of these wines were bottled to become the Imagery series.

For these handcrafted, limited-production wines, Joe Benziger wanted labels as evocative as the winemaking. He fortuitously met a local artist named Bob Nugent, whom he commissioned to create an original work of art. Nugent's inventive triptych Chardonnay label was the beginning of the Imagery artist series. During the last 20 years, Nugent has served as curator of the Imagery art collection, commissioning hundreds of international artists to design one-of-a-kind artwork for Imagery labels.

Aromas: peach, apricot, honeysuckle, citrus
Body: medium
Color: yellow

From their website: Vintage: A dry winter led to a fairly early bud break in 2007. Overall the growing season was evenly paced with a just a few heat spikes in the early summer. Warm August weather started harvest early, but then a cool September slowed things quite a bit and grapes hung on the vines another few weeks. This cool period helped to develop complexity in flavors while keeping sugars under control. 2007 was one of the longest harvests Sonoma County has seen in recent years, spanning almost three months from start to finish. This vintage was certainly smaller in quantity than 2006, but in many cases the lower yields meant more concentrated flavors.

Vinification: We whole berry press and use only the free run juice to preserve the wine's beautiful delicacy. Cold fermentation in stainless steel tank maintains the delicate flavors during fermentation. In this vintage, 15% of our Viognier went through barrel fermentation in French oak to add body and mouthfeel to the final blend. The wine was bottled in February of 2008. 664 cases

Eat with: pastis scented steamed mussels, garlic, leeks, herbs, grilled bread

Website: www.imagerywinery.com

Check out Imagery Estate Winery labels at http://www.imagerywinery.com/labels.html

2007 K Vintners Viognier, Columbia Valley

Charles Smith, winemaker and owner is well recognized as one of the top terriorists (not to be confused with terrorist) in the country. He uses grapes from all over the Columbia Valley blending his wines like an artist. He uses only natural yeasts to ferment.

Aromas: Pears and orange blossom in the nose. Great balance of fruit, minerality, and acid. Lush fruit on palate, great stream of acidity.
Body: medium to full
Color: golden yellow

From their website: “This fantastic viognier is pure balance and mineral.”

The Winery: Located at the base of the Blue Mountains in Walla Walla Washington, K Vintners opened its doors to the public on December 3rd, 2001. The property at 820 Mill Creek Road where the winery sits was homesteaded in 1853 with the adjacent farmhouse built in 1872. The winery grounds with Titus Creek flowing through the lawn and the old pioneer planted trees, is a little slice of heartland Americana.

The Winemaker: He loves to drink wine! Charles Smith, proprietor and winemaker, comes to Walla Walla after 11 years in Scandinavia. Originally from northern California, he has been involved with wine personally and professionally his whole life.

Woehler on Wine: K Vintners - By Bob Woehler, Wine Press Northwest tasting editor
excerpts from the article dated 5/13/09
“K Vintners of Walla Walla has made quite a splash at its modest, down-home winery along scenic Mill Creek Road. Not only does owner Charles Smith make some excellent wines, but he also does it with a certain amount of panache. His labels are in large, simple black and white type with lot of whimsy front and back… But there is nothing whimsical about the wines, which are balanced and tasty. And seven of his wines are in the $12 to $20 range…. Surprisingly, Smith is one of the largest producing wineries in the Walla Walla area, with 6,000 cases for K Vintners, 70,000 cases for the Charles Smith label and 150,000 cases from the famous Steak House and Fish House labels under Magnificent Wine Co. … Many of the K Vintners and Charles Smith wines are made at the Milbrandt brothers facility near Mattawa…”

Eat with:
sautéed Alaskan halibut, yukon potato purée, leek confit & crawfish-brandy reduction

Website: http://www.kvintners.com/

Video of Proprietor, Charles Smith:
http://www.winefoot.com/index.php/2009/04/charles-smith-interview/