Domaine de Nizas, 2006 Languedoc-Roussillan, France

The Domaine de Nizas was acquired in 1998 by John Goelet with the collaboration of Bernard Portet, co-founder of Clos du Val in Napa Valley. A visionary, who had by the 1970s the idea of ​​making great wines using the world's best soils. John Goelet an American of French origin, a direct descendant of the family Guestier (traders in Bordeaux), has always had a traditional wine-based finesse and elegance. He had already created Clos du Val in Napa Valley (California), Taltarni in Victoria (Australia) and Clover Hill in Tasmania.  

Domaine de Nizas is located in the South of France, on the outskirts of the village of Nizas near Pézenas in the heart of the Languedoc region. Located 20 miles from the Mediterranean Sea, the exceptional terroir of Pezenas as ideal for creating high quality wines, the traditional way, which express the character Mediterranean climate with low rainfall and dry, warm summers.

On a manually tended 200-acre vineyard, the estate is known for handcrafted limited-production wines. Their goal is to serve as a model in terms of elegance, complexity, balance and aging ability among Mediterranean wines. The winery crafts boutique-style, artisanal wines and emphasizes sustainable agriculture.

Winemaking in the Languedoc region in the south of France began as early as the 5th Century B.C.E., when Greeks planted vineyards along the coast near the city of Narbonne. Those ancient vintners no doubt realized that the region’s soils were special. The winery’s terroir offers a unique mosaic of three soil types. These soils are deep and provide excellent drainage while retaining moisture at root level, ensuring vines fully ripen without water stress.

The Villafranchian (pebbles, river gravel soil), often found in the Chateauneuf du Pape area of the Southern Rhone Valley, preserves the freshness of flavors and produces elegant and velvety tannins.  This soil type brings finesse and structure to the wines grown at Nizas, as well as a good acidity that allows the wine to age. It produces aromas of chocolate and coffee in Syrah.

The Basalt, a type of volcanic flow unique to the Pézenas area, creates fine, mineral aromas and elegant structure with flavor sensations of spice and licorice.

The Marne Calcaire (limestone-clay) when planted with Syrah, results in more powerful wines with red berries aromas.

70 percent of the Domaine de Nizas acreage is classified as Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Coteaux du Languedoc. The average age of the vines is 20 years, ranging from recently planted Syrah to 60 year-old Carignan. The varietals used in Domaine de Nizas wines include Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache in the AOC category as well as Syrah, Carignan, Viognier and Muscat Petit Grain in the Vin de Pays category.

Domaine de Nizas has been certified by the Bureau Veritas, an independent government bureau, which strives to protect the health of consumers and respect the environment. Domaine de Nizas obtained its sustainable agriculture certification in 2003 as a result of pioneering efforts to farm sustainably since their inception in 1998.

Domaine de Nizas practices sustainable agriculture by:

The vines are worked manually and a decisive approach is taken towards pruning, bud removal, lifting the wires, and if required, removing excess grapes.

The plantation of the vineyard with a long term view, conserving old vines with high quality potential such as our Carignan of 55 years old.

Favoring the biological life of the soils by using ploughing and grass rather than herbicides

Tracing each bottle of wine to a specific vineyard plot in order to more effectively control quality and segment any bottle variances to its origin in the vineyard

Minimally using selective fungicides and insecticides to conserve natural predators of vine parasites

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY

Grapes are harvested at optimum ripeness with a good balance of sugar and acidity. The trellised vines are machine harvested, however, the young vines and old vines are hand-picked. Transport of the grapes in tipping trailers or small crates for the hand-picked fruit to assure good condition of the grapes from the vineyard (white grapes are protected from oxidization).

The cellar is situated at Usclas d’Hérault (5 to 10 km from the vineyards), this former apple warehouse transformed into a winery offers a well-adapted solution for vinifying, ageing and warehousing wines. Located on 3000 m² on the edge of the village, the 1300 m² building was renovated and transformed in May in time to receive the harvest in 2001.

Once the grapes arrive at the winery the grapes are de-stalked (with the exception of the Carignan to be vinified under carbonic maceration) and gently put into tanks. Maceration is carefully controlled in order to naturally enhance the work that has already been done in the vineyard shooting for deep colors, intense and pure aromas, full-bodied and soft tannins.

After 15 to 25 days on the skins, the grapes are pressed and the resulting wine is then graded according to the quality of the press. The wines pass into oak barrels to complete the malo-lactic fermentation. The oak ageing of part of the wine to be included in the final blend aims to enhance the Mediterranean character of our wines without dominating it. The wines aged in tanks are regularly pumped over.

After 9 to 12 months, the wines are pumped over and blended in preparation for the bottling, when they are lightly filtered. They are then aged in bottle in our air-conditioned warehouse awaiting their launch onto the market.

Description and praise for the wine:

Domaine de Nizas 2006 Coteaux du Languedoc
This is a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. This wine is deep garnet in color, with fragrant aromas of blackberries, bilberries (European blueberries) and spices. The distinctive herbal notes commonly found in wines around the Mediterranean called garrigue—lavender, sage, rosemary and wild thyme—speak to the wine’s regionality and terroir. The palate is well-balanced and clean, becoming round and full-bodied, with soft, ripe tannins and a long finish. Enjoyable now or age for up to five years in a cool cellar. 

Wine Spectator - This elegant red, with interesting hints of juniper and savory herb to the red fruit flavors. Well-structured and balanced, with a succulent finish. Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. Drink now through 2014. Score: 90. —Kim Marcus, September 30, 2010.

Owen Roe, 2010 Sinister Hand, Columbia Valley

Owen Roe winery is named after Owen Roe O'Neill, a 17th century Irish Patriot from County Cavan, Ireland where winemaker David O'Reilly, one of 12 children, was originally from. Despite an age-old clan rivalry between the O’Neills and the O’Reillys, the two families were united in the opposition to Oliver Cromwell’s English tyranny over Ireland in the 1600’s. The photographs on all of his wine labels commemorate sites in Ireland where O’Neill lived, fought, and died. 

Adorned on the label is a giant picture of a severed left hand which turns out to be his own family’s crest. It tells a story of a rowing competition between the O’Reilly’s and the O’Neills. Whoever touched land first after rowing across the lake was to be rewarded with the land he touched. Lagging behind, one of the kinsfolk grabs his sword to cleave his hand and tosses it ashore to touch land first. He won the land and later ruled over it as king.  Each wine and each label depicts a different chapter in the Owen Roe saga, utilizing the back label to convey the story.

Owen Roe is committed to practicing the highest standards of winemaking. Since the first vintage in 1999, Owen Roe winery has been working to produce exceptional wines from fruit sourced from small vineyard sites in the Willamette Valley in Oregon and the Yakima Valley in Washington State, a place where the fruit ripens slowly and fully, resulting in excellent acidity and balance, in an effort to showcase the best expression of each variety.    

The interest in these areas is further enhanced by the remarkable diversity of soil types within each region; allowing them to create wines with distinctive and unique personality, even within the same varietal. They employ as natural practices as possible in the vineyards.  The principle of good earth stewardship is very important to everyone they work with, so no herbicides or pesticides are used in these vineyards. David O'Reilly is a firm believer in the principle that great wine comes from great grapes. All of the grapes are hand harvested, handled with minimal processing, small-lot fermented, and aged in French Oak barrels. 

Typically they are racked only once after malolactic fermentation. Once in the winery, only minimal and traditional handling practices are employed to gently coax the most authentic expressions of each varietal.

"Everything we do is meticulous," said O'Reilly. "What we do is totally uncompromised. It is a lifestyle that includes hard work, but the product is thoroughly rewarding."

As someone who believes in working with the best, O’Reilly insists on feeding his crews in Oregon and Washington at lunchtime with fresh food. He hires a cook to serve lunch daily. The crew sits down for the meal and talks about the work of the day or things they hear in the industry. If O’Reilly is in town, he joins them for a meal.

Everything O'Reilly does is also thoroughly Irish. "I like to tell people that I got involved in the business to follow an Irishman's dreams," said O'Reilly with a wink and an Irish brogue that comes and goes. "Imagine making a living by drinking!"  He jokes of course, because O'Reilly is dead serious about wine making. Although he enjoys the high ratings bestowed on his wines, O'Reilly says he is more satisfied with great taste.

In a relatively short time these spectacular wines have built an excellent reputation among the restaurants and shops of not only Washington State, but also New York, San Francisco, and Chicago.  His wines generally sell out every vintage, and his beautiful labels are immediately recognized by consumers.

Owen Roe's 2010 Sinister Hand blend is a Chateauneuf-du-Pape-style blend composed of 71% Grenache, 24% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre. A small crop of intensely flavored fruit in 2010 means fewer bottles than usual of an especially big Sinister Hand. Deep purple. Dark fruit aromas are accompanied by juicy raspberry and cranberry preserves, with herb and savory spice accents. The first sip of this wine surprises the palate with soft, supple flavors of raspberry jam and currant. The mid-palate opens up to a complex layering of minty eucalyptus, black pepper and leather and finishes with a structured backbone of earth and spice. The overall palate is vibrant and lush, with fine tannin structure and a medley of earth, hint of coffee and baking spice accenting the layers of fruit.  Syrah adds pepper, Grenache adds raspberry jam. Medium to full-bodied with crisp acidity, smooth tannins, and a long finish.

It's not an unfamiliar sight to see O'Reilly touring the hills surrounding the Yakima Valley in his Ford Explorer, scouting out vineyards. Although a designated appellation, the Yakima Valley has been under the radar for many years, with the Walla Walla and Columbia Valley appellations garnering most of the attention. O'Reilly, a stickler about fruit, is convinced that the Yakima Valley has yet to yield all its gems in the hills surrounding the desert floor. With a cool, dry climate and shallow soils on top of volcanic rock, Yakima Valley vines produce smaller grapes with high acidity and lower pH levels - exactly what O'Reilly wants for a balanced wine.

There is no shortage of grapes here, but at times it has been a battle to convince local growers that less fruit of higher quality will be their best fiscal bet. Eastern Washington crop farmers are used to big yields - 5 to 10 tons of fruit or more per acre.

The Columbia Valley AVA is Washington's largest viticultural region covering just over 1/3 of the land mass of Washington state. Within the Columbia Valley AVA lie all of the AVAs of Washington except the Puget Sound AVA and part of the Columbia Gorge AVA. Many different micro-climates are found within this larger region and these influence quite heavily the Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Chardonnay grown here. The arid soils, warm days and cool nights provide perfect conditions for fruit forward balanced wines.

Story compiled from excerpts from Christina Kelly at AvalonWine.com, and other sources found on the web including;
http://www.avalonwine.com/Owen-Roe-Winery-New-Vineyards-New-Winery.php, 
http://www.northwest-wine.com/owen-roe-winery.html
www.winepeeps.com
www.owneroe.com

Groundwork, 2009 Grenache, Santa Barbara County

"Sans Liege is the brain-child of Curt Schalchlin who worked for David Corey of Core Wines and Russell From and Mac Myers of Barrel 27, Herman Story and McPrice Myers. Definitely pushing the envelope for richness, you wouldn't mistake these wines for their French counterparts but they well reflect how these varietals express themselves here in California. The 2007 Groundwork Santa Barbara County Grenache is a hedonistic example of this grape varietal. It has copious amounts of red cherry fruit, some spice notes and a smooth easy finish. It is not huge on structure, so don't think to put this one away but it is pure pleasure in a glass right now and for the next couple of years". (Keith Mabry, K&L Hollywood)

This wine flaunts the diversity and elegance of Central Coast Grenache, leading with aromatics of raspberry cobbler, white pepper, Moroccan dates, tart cherries, cocoa powder, brown sugar and Provencal lamb stew. In the mouth are subtle shadings from blood orange, eucalyptus, fresh ground espresso roast, thyme, forest floor and grilled venison. A pleasant, dusty herbaciousness rounds out the palate, recalling rosemary, sage and tarragon.

"Curt Schalchlin–winemaker and owner of both the Sans Liege and the Groundwork labels–is making some of the most interesting and sought-after wines in the state of California.  His winemaking style, eccentric personality and artistic labels are all very reminiscent of that of Manfred Krankl of Sine Qua Non fame.

Sans Liege and Groundwork are two tiny one-man shows located in the heart of Santa Barbara County.  From the vineyard to the cellar, from marketing to delivery, Curt does it all.  While wearing so many hats admittedly keeps him incredibly busy, it also guarantees that his uncompromising high level standards are consistently met and the proof is in every bottle of wine that he makes.  Curt’s passion flows in his current lineup of latest and greatest, which showcases his talents and highlights the great success that was seen in both the 2009 and 2010 vintages along the Central Coast and beyond.

While no one would mistake this for a French wine, it is a wonderful interpretation of this famous Rhone varietal.  It starts out with dusty red fruit, grenadine, violets and chalky mineral notes with a fine balance of fruit intensity and spice. The red raspberry, strawberry and cheery fruit coats the palate with hints of crushed rock, fennel, white pepper, truffle and anise." www.sfwtc.com

Tavosa, 2010 Grenache Rosé, Sonoma Valley

Tavosa Wines is located in Sonoma, California. The Benz and O'Connor families have partnered with winemaker Justin Estes to create small batch wines inspired by Old World wine regions.

Tavosa already had a foot in the door at the girl & the fig, so when the wine was ready, it was welcomed with open arms. This is the first wine from a small family winery that has dreamed about making this happen, and indeed it has.  We were fortunate to have worked with Nick's wife Lenka, so we had an insider tip when the wine was ready. And with only 48 cases of their first wine, we were happy to be in line.

Among the grapes that Tavosa purchases come come from the Kick Ranch, vineyards that we have grown to respect for their enthusiastic efforts with Rhone grape varietals. Kick Ranch has become a “reference point” vineyard for Rhone varietal grapes in Sonoma County, and in addition, some killer Sauvignon Blanc wines. The vineyard is on a beautiful hillside planted on historic land - a vineyard flourished there by 1880. 

In a recent Q & A with owner Nick Benz, he contemplates the start of his personal wine business.

Nick Benz

Why did you decide to start Tavosa?

The old adage...find something you love and you will never work another day in your life.

What was the biggest lesson you learned this year?

Patience.  The wine industry can be an obstacle course.  To succeed you need the patience and solid plan forward.

Their first wine, a lovely refreshing Grenache Rose has the aromas of rose petals on a plate of fresh cut summer melons. 

Justin Estes, Winemaker -  In 2007 he received an internship offer with the highly acclaimed Pinot Noir producer Kosta Browne. After two months of complete immersion, he knew he found his career path. The following Southern Hemisphere harvest took Justin to the Barossa Valley in South Australia where he worked at Teusner Wines, a renowned producer of Rhone varietals. He fell in love with the aromas and blending capabilities the grape has to offer.  After another harvest at Kosta Brown, Justin took an opportunity at Landmark Vineyards where he met Nick.

When winemaker, Justin Estes was asked, what would you pair with the 2010 Grenache Rosé?
His response was a sensible one for a very refreshing wine --- I would pair this Rosé with a hot summer day and good friends.

websites:  Tavosa
                Kick Ranch

MATHIS 2007 GRENACHE, SONOMA VALLEY

MATHIS 2007 GRENACHE,  SONOMA VALLEY

 

Peter Mathis is somewhat of a local celebrity and can often be spotted either having a bite to eat at the girl & the fig or efficiently producing wine and managing Ravenswood Winery.  So what better way to learn about a wine, then ask the man who made it.  After a couple of attempts I finally met with Peter about a week ago and he shared some information about his latest release under the Mathis label, the 2007 Grenache...

The 2007 Mathis Grenache is grown on Peter’s own 7.5 acre property in the Sonoma hills.  He believes this vintage is one of his best, boasting elegant acidity and balanced fruit, a far more feminine counterpart to his 2006 release.  Peter told me that he found this wine to be “beautiful, a happy wine, not edgy or aggressive.” The flavors are reminiscent of “strawberry jam, spiced apricot, pomegranate, blackberry and a dash of white pepper (Mathis, 2010).”  Peter was adamant in his belief that even New World Grenache’s should be made with Old World, specifically Rhone considerations and characteristics, this means no new oak during the fermentation process, ever.  Peter prefers to use neutral french oak barrels, where “99% of the oak flavor is out.” The “slap-happy” aromas of ripe black cherry, dried cranberry, fennel, and a hint of spice are delectable and enticing!  The tannins are not overwhelming, but rather subtle and charming, allowing the Petite Syrah to throw in just enough spice, and the Carignane to give a nice kick of acidity.  Overall the above characteristics make the Mathis 2007 Grenache a great choice for versatile food pairing next time you are dining at the girl & fig or making dinner at home. 

 

Varietals: 81% Grenache, 10% Carignane, 8% Petite Syrah, 1% Alicante Bouchet

Vineyard: Sonoma County/ About 4 miles above The Girl and the Fig (in the town of Sonoma).

Harvest Dates:  September 24 though October 18, 2007.

Fermentation: Small, 1.5 ton open top fermentation with 3 punch downs daily, using 100% native yeast.

Aging: 28 months in Neutral French Oak (Peter Mathis never (and will not ever) use new oak barrels for his Grenache).

Acidity: 5.8 grams/liter
pH: 3.6
Alcohol: 14.4%
Production: 888 cases

Peter Mathis is the head winemaker at Ravenswood, where he began his career in 1990. 2004 was his very first release of his wine under the new Mathis label. Luckily for us, Peter has always been intrigued and inspired by the wines from the Southern Rhone Valley. He also has a specific passion for Grenache; "its unique, bold and juicy quality and almost unparalleled ability to express truly bright fruit characteristics" convinced him to plant it on his Sonoma Valley property in 1999.

Skylark Grenache 2007, Mendocino

The winemakers and owners at the Skylark Wine Company are good friends and together have made an exuberant Grenache.  

From the website: “Charlie Sawyer’s Grenache Vineyard sits above Ukiah at just under 1000 feet elevation.  This gently sloping, southwest facing block is 2.64 acres planted to the Tablas Creek clone of Grenache.  This is our first release from Charlie’s vineyard, and we definitely believe we have found our home with Grenache.  

Fermented in small, open top tank with 8% while clusters, it spent sixteen days on the skins with alternating punch downs and pump-overs, then racked to all used French cooperage.”

About the winemakers: “ John Lancaster, co-proprietor of Skylark Wine Company, is a graduate of Washington State University in Pullman, Washington. His passion for wine grew while working in the restaurant industry and brought him to the culinary destination of San Francisco. As the Wine Director of the wildly eclectic Cypress Club, he was recognized by the Wine Spectator for his wine list. For the past eleven years, John has been the Wine Director at the James Beard award winning Boulevard Restaurant. During his tenure at Boulevard, John has traveled extensively throughout the world's wine regions studying wine production. In addition to his professional duties at Boulevard, John is also a professional wine judge and consultant.”

“Robert Perkins, co-proprietor of Skylark Wine Company, is a graduate of Fine Art Painting from the San Francisco Art Institute. His designs are featured on every Skylark Wine label. When Robert is not in his studio in San Francisco, he is pursuing his other creative outlet, wine. With his expertise in the wine industry, Robert has been a wine consultant for several Bay Area restaurants. He has also worked hands-on in production at several small wineries including Nalle, Scherrer and Sean Thackrey.”

Sondra and John have known John Lancaster and Robert Perkins for at least 8 years seeing them off and on at Hospice du Rhone in Paso Robles.

Aroma: Red cherry, kirsch, raspberry, plum.

Palate: juicy, ripe cherry, balanced tannins and structure

Vintage: 2007
Varietal: Grenache
Appellation: Mendocino

2005 Mathis, Grenache, Sonoma Valley

Peter Mathis, owner and winemaker was the head winemaker at Ravenswood. The 2005 Grenache is his second vintage under his own label. He has always been intrigued by Rhone varietals, especially Grenache, and decided to plant in the Sonoma Valley in 1999.

Body: medium
Color: garnet red
Aromas: juicy blackberry, ripe black cherries, and dried cranberries. Flavors of strawberry and pomegranate.
Case production: 820 cases

From their website: Aromas of ripe black cherries, dried cranberries and licorice, with pomegranate, blackberry, strawberries and a hint of black pepper in the mouth. For peak aromatic intensity - allow the ‘05 Grenache some breathing time. The tannins are silky smooth and round with sweet viscosity throughout, and just enough backbone (from the Petite) and acidity (from the Carignane) to make it an ideal accompaniment to food. The wine should continue to put on weight and add fruit complexity for 4 to 5 years, and should hold up well in to the latter part of the next decade. A sign that really indicates that Peter is his own boss, are his special corks that are stamped with the saying, “I GROW IT - I MAKE IT.” Definitely a collector’s item.

Peter has 7 acres of vines on Mountain Avenue in Sonoma Valley. Low vigor volcanic soils with underlying basalt and rhyolite. The vines are influenced by the San Francisco Bay.His 2005 vintage has 4% Carignane, 11% Petite Sirah and 1% Alicante Bouchet in its blend; and it is all grown on the same property.

Eat with: duck confit, organic escarole, rice beans, applewood bacon, roasted garlic purée & herbed olive oil

Website: http://www.mathiswine.com

2006 Domaine La Barroche, Grenache, "PURE", CNdP, France

I last saw Julien at the tasting this past March during the Decouvertes du Rhone. Once again I was blown away by his current vintage of PURE (having tasted the 2004 two years prior). We spoke for a few minutes and I actually asked him to marry me right in front of his mother (thinking I could only drink one wine for the rest of my life it could be the PURE for sure)! We recently put this on the list and I will be happy for anyone who orders it! (Though save some for me.)

Good words: Christian and Julien Barrot’s Domaine La Barroche burst on the wine scene with very good 2004s, and sensational 2005s, especially the out-of-this-world 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure. The Pure cuvee is made from 100% old vine Grenache planted in sandy soils in Pointu and Grand Pierre, not far from the sandy soils of Rayas. It is aged totally in old wood foudres. Robert Parker

This is indeed 100% old vine Grenache, which is uncommon for a Chateauneuf du Pape but is allowable. The wine is elegantly structured with multiple layers of fruit, spice, and classic earthiness of CDP. Intense, jammy kirsch liqueur and raspberry characteristics are followed by a voluptuous wine with supple tannin, and, as the name suggests, a “pure” style.

This is a stunningly rich, opulent Chateauneuf to drink during its first 12-15 years of life. With over 30 acres of vines in Chateauneuf du Pape, this relatively new estate, run by Christian and Julien Barrot, has served notice that they are intent on making high quality wines. The Pure has been compared to being as close to a great vintage of Rayas as one will.

Body: medium
Color: garnet red
Aromas: opulent and rich aromas of boysenberry, ganache, and blueberry, with a floral backbone

From their website: In 2002 the son of Christian, Julien joined his father and wanted to give a broader scale at the domain. He had then completed studies in winemaking and business. He wants to do something more than just sell the wines to a negociant and is a typical representative for the young well educated generation in Chateauneuf du Pape full of self-confidence and devoted to go his own way, well aware of the traditions you have to follow and thankful to his forefathers who left him fields with healthy vines. It will be interesting to follow what he can achieve with his will to work hard and his drive to do something new.

The domain has 12,5 hectares in Chateauneuf du Pape. The average age is 60 years old, but 1/3 of the vines are more than 100-year-old Grenache. This is the case for the 1,6 hectare vineyard at Grand Pierre. This parcel is free of pebbles and with sandy red soils located at the slopes. At Palestor is 2,3 hectares with 100-year-old Grenache. There are also parcels with young vines and 10 percent of the belonging is not yet in production because of the young vines.

More Good Words: Dark, with an ample core of black cherry, raspberry and red plum fruit, layered with spice and toast notes. The finish shows nice pure fruit and minerality. Wine Spectator

Eat with: duck confit, organic escarole, rice beans, applewood bacon, roasted garlic purée & herbed olive oil

Website: http://domainelabarroche.net/pure.html

2007 Quivira, Grenache, "Wine Creek Ranch" Dry Creek Valley

Winemaker Steven Canter arrived at Quivira three years ago from Torbreck Vintners in Barossa Valley, Australia, Canter is an American who had come to Sonoma in a roundabout way: first inspired by Kermit Lynch’s earthy, terroir driven imports from France, then wandering the world looking for the vinous meaning of life while picking up jobs as a cellarer in California, Oregon, Italy and South Africa. (Randy Caparoso)

He passionately believes pro-active organic and Biodynamic farming leads to more vibrant, better tasting fruit. He works closely with Quivira’s vineyard crew manager of 20 years, Tony Castellanos, to capture the truest expression of each varietal from Quivira's vineyards.

Wine Creek Ranch is 100% Demeter Certified Biodynamic and organic. There are 6.5 acres of greanche at Wine Creek Ranch. All the valley floor sites are a dynamic mix of clay and loam. This ranch is bisected by Wine Creek and bordered on the North by Dry Creek. Quivira is Certified Biodynamic, meaning that they go a step beyond organic. Factors such as rhythm of the seasons and natural fertilizers come into play; indeed, the methods for making compost read more like recipes than a chemistry textbook. Canter pointed out that while this is the way they feel they can best make wine and take care of the land, he doesn't think that such methods should be forced on anyone. (Benito’s Wine Reviews)

Quivira uses a 55kW solar electric system to supply 100% of their energy. Their water usage is greatly reduced by using a steam cleansing machine that uses 98% less water than traditional methods for barrel cleansing and soaking. Quivira keeps honeybees on the property to pollinate the orchards and vegetables.

Tasting Notes: Fruit comes out in full force, mixed in a bit of spice. Freshly picked fruit, a bit of earth, mostly neutral oak.

Aromas: fruit-forward with hints of a touch of strawberry and cherries
Body: soft & medium
Color: Vibrant red tones with a touch of brick
812 cases

From their website: “At Quivira, we believe the greatest wines are first grown in the vineyard and then expressed in the winemaking. For this reason we have tied vineyard management directly to the winemaking process. Our winemaker is also our vineyard manager, and thus has the direct responsibility for managing the quality of the grapes that will ultimately determine the quality of the wine.

Since the Wendts first took control of the vineyards in 1981, the Quivira Estate has been farmed with an emphasis on sustainability and minimal impact. The Kights have expanded this commitment to include a partnership with Trout Unlimited and the Department of Fish and Game to complete the full restoration of Wine Creek, and to expand the commitment for organic farming. The quality of our wines are reflected through the preserving of the natural macrobiotic health and balance found within the vineyard environment as a whole. Through the dedicated and disciplined practice of the founding Biodynamic principles of Sustainability, Commitment, Regulating, and Attention, Quivira continues its long tradition of investing first in the vineyards in order to create truly great wines.”

Eat with: grilled rabbit roulade, carrot purée, haricot verts, baby carrots, roasted shallots & thyme jus.

Website: http://www.quivirawine.com/

2006 Unti, Grenache, Dry Creek Valley

Like the Rhone winemakers, Mick Unti chooses to blend in Syrah and Mourvedre into his predominantly Grenache based wine to add depth, color, and complexity. He likens this vintage of Grenache to a Gigondas with high fruit tones and lots of pepper.

In 2004, the Untis began using biodynamic vineyard practices designed to make the vines more self-sustaining and adaptive to their natural environment.

Body: medium
Color: garnet red
Aromas: raspberry, blackberry, tar, licorice, pepper, dried herbs
Varietal: 77% Grenache, 17% Syrah, 6% Mourvedre
Case production: 990

From their website:
VARIETAL & VINEYARD: This Southern Rhône-style wine is from the creekside vineyards planted in 1998. The primary component of this blend comes from a 2.9 acre block, planted to three clones of Grenache Noir. The bud-wood comes from Tablas Creek and Alban Vineyards. These clones, selected from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, give darker color and better structure than the majority of Grenache planted in California.

VINTAGE/HARVEST: The late growing season forced them to patiently wait until the grapes were very ripe, or as the French would say, surmaturite, which is when Grenache develops its most interesting flavors.

VINIFICATION: Thirty percent of this wine was fermented using whole clusters. Retaining the stems helped provide bright fruit and pepper aromas. The wine was aged in 620 gallon foudres, which are commonly used in the Rhône. These large barrels preserve the vineyard character by minimizing both oak extraction and oxidation. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered.

STYLE/DESCRIPTION: The 2006 is more like a Gigondas – meaning it has higher tone fruit and pepper with bright acidity. It has intense aromatics of raspberry, blackberry, tar, pepper, licorice, and dried herbs. Fruit forward, this Grenache has the stuff to last at least 3 to five years, but should really start showing well in two years. written by Mick

Eat with: charcuterie platter. pâté, rillettes and terrine.

Website: http://www.untivineyards.com/

Here is a link to an interesting twelve week Cellar Rat wine experience with journalist Ella Lawrence at Unti Vineyards:

http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2008/09/cellar_rat_week_one_at_unti_vi.php

2006 Elizabeth Spencer, Grenache, Mendocino County

Elizabeth Pressler and Spencer Graham, husband and wife, formed Elizabeth Spencer in 1998.

The Grenache is from a single vineyard with very stony soils located in Mendocino just east of Ukiah. Due to the rough terrain, the vines struggle through the growing season creating grape clusters with very tiny berries yet full of exuberant aromatics and flavors. The soils here are a textbook example of the theory proving that growing vinifera fruit in rugged terroir does achieve the fullest, most complex components in the resultant wine.

Body: medium
Color: deep garnet
Aromas: black cherry, black tea, lilac, white pepper, raspberry, spice
Varietal Blend: 95% Grenache, 5% Durif
Case production: 350 cases
Ageing: 14 months used and new French oak

From their website: The wine is supple and round on the entry, with grip and texture building beneath layers of ripe plum, Bing cherry. This mouth-filling wine is firm and refreshing on the finish.

Winemaking: Grapes were hand-harvested in late October, removed from the stems and placed in a small open-top tank. After light maceration, the skins and the pulp sat together for six days prior to fermentation in order to extract as much of the bright fruit flavors as possible. Native yeasts were encouraged, and the wine was punched down by hand, pressed just before dryness and moved to barrel to complete fermentation. Barrel-aged for 14 months, the tannins integrated seamlessly with the body of the wine prior to bottling.

Eat with: charcuterie platter, pâté, rillettes and terrine.

Website: http://www.elizabethspencerwines.com/

California Grenache: Peter Mathis

MATHIS SONOMA VALLEY 2004 GRENACHE

Having been familiar with Peter's wines from Ravenswood, we jumped at the opportunity to put the first release under his own label on our winelist. And the wine is an absolute winner!

From Peter's website, "The tannins are ripe and round with sweet viscosity throughout, and just enough backbone (from the Petite) and acidity (from the Carignane) to make it an ideal accompaniment to food. The wine should continue to put on weight and add fruit complexity for 4 to 5 years, and should hold up well in to the latter part of the next decade. The aroma is dominated by ripe black cherries and dried cranberries, followed by a spice kissed apricot, pomegranate, blackberry and strawberries in the mouth. The ’04 Mathis Grenache is immediately easy to appreciate but rewards those who allow for some breathing time." We agree with all of the above!

Tasting it again a few weeks ago, I realize that this wine will really age nicely and continue to mellow in flavor over the next few years. The fruit flavors are gorgeous, and the wine is enveloped with fruity aromas. The full, ripe, sun drenched berry flavors with a dash of pepper & vanilla are layered with some Spring flavors of mint and English peas. The wine has a perfectly balanced lingering finish, a velvety feel on the tongue and a wild party in the mouth! A sign that really indicates that Peter is his own boss, are his special corks that are stamped with the saying, “I GROW IT - I MAKE IT.” Definitely a collector’s item.

Peter Mathis is the head winemaker at Ravenswood, where he began his career in 1990. 2004 was his very first release of his wine under the new Mathis label. Luckily for us, Peter has always been intrigued and inspired by the wines from the Southern Rhone Valley. He also has a specific passion for Grenache; "its unique, bold and juicy quality and almost unparalleled ability to express truly bright fruit characteristics" convinced him to plant it on his Sonoma Valley property in 1999.

Peter has 7 acres of vines on Mountain Avenue in Sonoma Valley. His 2004 vintage has 9% Carignane, 4% Petite Sirah and 1% Alicante Bouchet in its blend; and it is all grown on the same property. The blend was aged for 30 months in neutral French barrels and was bottled in September 2007. Just over 500 cases were produced of his first vintage. If you are lucky, you may find this wine available from $36 - $55 per bottle. JUICY & DELICIOUS! FOR SURE!

A Trilogy of Grenache

In the first Wine Club shipment, I decided to select my favorite Rhone varietal; Grenache. My reasoning was that I would be able to taste my way through Grenache all winter, earnestly trying to find the right combination of wines to share with you. Frankly, I was not ever disappointed, not even with the ones that I wasn’t overly crazy about. I find this grape really intriguing in its diversity of flavor. When you really take the time to ‘taste’ up close, you can taste the earth, the sun (in a sun-dried kind of a way), sometimes the sweetness of eucalyptus, rosemary with hints of vanilla - lavender. Most often the California Grenache wines were round, ripe with full deep blackberry and cherry fruit. The Spanish Garnacha wines had some levels of cranberry tartness and sour cherries with a dusty rose essence. Being a lover of black licorice, there is no wonder that those flavors easily came through in the Montsant versions. And the French, they too, truly understand what to do with this grape. Undertones of mushrooms, deep forest green, maybe some moss … Not all the wines I tasted were 100% Grenache, not all were old vine, not all were aged in oak for years — but they ALL evoked deep thought, a Cheshire cat smile and purely simple Grenache joy. Perfects sips of grape heaven. A Votre Santé!

Domaine La Garrigue

As I continue to search for the right French Grenache for our first Wine Club shipment, last weeks tasting brought back a flood of emotions regarding our trips to the Rhone Descouvertes over the past few years. A combination of tender memories and a longing to return to my heart of heart favorite destination has been genuinely inspiring.

The Rhone Descouvertes is an incredibly organized wine tasting event held in the Rhone Valleys every other year. Both times that John & I went, we were invited by the Hospice du Rhone. We were to join them to prepare a dazzling meal paired with California Rhone wines for French Rhone Winemakers. This was an exceptional ten days. The wine tasting in 2005 started in the Northern Rhone in Ampuis/Condrieu and then headed south to Cote Rotie, Cotes du Rhones, Gigondas … We arrived a few days prior to the tasting to get organized for our meal, review the kitchen (very small), determine the menu, shop for food (see what was available and what was in season in March), prep in unfamiliar surroundings and then finally cook the meal for 40 impressive guests. Creating food for the wines of John Alban, Steve Beckman and Mat Garretson is a daunting task. We are enthralled by their talents and it humbles us to even attempt to create the perfect pairing that will showcase their wines. And then to actually serve our interpretation of country French food to actual Country French wine aficionados added to the already high level of stress. All in all the meal was lovely success – and our guests seemed appreciative and satiated. After the meal, the rest of the trip was a whirlwind.

Each day the Inter-Rhone organization set up a large tasting area – some were in school gymnasiums, parking lots, church halls, under tents in the vineyards, wineries and almost anywhere they could fit 500 people or more. Some days there were 1 – 2 locations and other days, 4 – 5. The valleys were dotted with large red arrows on the round rounds leading the way to the next tasting. The effort to start with white wines in the morning and pace myself throughout the day did not last long nor did the note taking efforts in the early days look more than scribbles upon return. Many of the locations were paired with a local caterer. Some meals were large buffets highlighting the specialties of the town others were small bites (tea sandwiches, tiny desserts …) and always cheese. These were educational days, networking and occasionally seeing other friends in the business.
When the day of wine tasting was finished the evening wine drinking and party began. Some nights we went to dinner at a restaurant and then ended up at a Descouvertes event and some evenings were spent in French winemakers homes with hospitality in abundance. One of the restaurants that I had almost forgotten about was Les Florets – a countryside restaurant with a long history.

Les Florets is one of the most famous restaurants and hotel in the area. It is located in a a beautiful wooded valley that is located near the rocky Dentelles du Montmirail behind the wine village of Gigondas. The property has a beautiful outdoor stone terrace under large grand trees with a view of the wooded hills above the valley. When we were there in March the terrace was closed and it was definitely too chilly to dine al fresco. I remember sitting against one of the walls of the country-style dining room (lots of knick knacks and flowered? wallpaper). Dinner was lovely – we feasted on a multi-course prix-fix tasting menu including game birds of duck and pheasant, braised rabbit and lamb, and wintery vegetables. Dinner concluded with a cheese course from the trolley.

Interestingly enough, I am telling you this story because one of the wines that we tasted last week was a Grenache blend from Vacquerayas, from the Domaine de la Garrigue – one of the oldest Domaines in the region and owned by the same family that owns the Les Florets restaurant. The Bernard family’s vines were planted in the late 1940s after the Germans left the area after World War II. Though, from reading historians’ notes, “the garrigues” or “the ruins” date back to centuries prior where the Romans were known to make wine here.

The climate in the Southern Rhone is extremely warm in the summer, with consistent temperatures in the 90’s during July and August. Because of this, rich, full-bodied, and spicy wines are to be expected. The soil is similar to that of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with massive rocks dotting the vineyards. The old bush vines of Garrigue are planted on these rocks and for most of the vineyards, there is not visible soil present, just rock. The wines are made in the traditional winemaking methods with minimal manipulation. The importance of the land itself, the rocky hillside and the hot temperatures are what the winemakers count on the show off the terroir in their grapes. The winemaking process again takes a minimalist approach with long macerations and fermentations (no stainless steel is used) and seldom pumpovers.
The 2004 vintage from Vacquerayas has a 20% blend of Mourvedre which shows up in the strong black pepper-vanilla finish. The wine is a deep purple with herbal and floral aromas and flavors. The mid palate of the wine comes through as very fruity with wild berry tastes that bounce in a berry-cherry flavor spectrum. The wine has a light, dark chocolate-lavender dry finish. Carefully crafted, this wine can afford to be aerated and/or decanted to let the strong pepper aromas tone down. Only 1000 cases were produced for the American Market and once again imported by the famed importer Eric Solomon. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate published a 91 for this wine with applause for its uniqueness and quality considering the extremely reasonable cost. Though this wine was enjoyed by our tasting panel, it did not make the cut for the club. The 2004 vintage is rare to find now, though I have spotted some of the 2005 vintage around.

In France - Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil

Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil, 2005 Cairanne

One of the most interesting aspects regarding the background of this wine is that winemaker Catherine Le Goeuil uses only organic methods to produce not only one of the great values to come out of Cairanne, but also a lovely example of a French Grenache. Her decision to become biodynamic in the vineyard has improved the quality of her wines, and apparently the birds are enjoying the natural environment so much that they sing much louder about it. These organic wines are first reflected in her 2000 vintage and she has found her methods to be successful and fruitful. These organic wines are a true reflection of the climate and terroir of the Cairanne region. Using her love for flowers, she emphasizes the aromatics of her wines - creating floral fruit and earthy fragrance.

Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil is located in the petite village of Cairanne, (a relatively unknown village) in the heart of the valley of the southern Rhône. This town is one of the original four Côtes du Rhône Villages. Wine has been made in Cairanne dating back beyond the Middle Ages. Most of the vines at Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil are over 40 years old and some date back even further. These vines are maintained to be low yielding to ensure the high quality and concentration of fruit. The grapes are harvested completely by hand.

The 2005 was full-bodied, well balanced, and aromatic. I languished on the full berry flavors, and I liked the way the wine felt on my tongue. This spicy Grenache was delicious, ripe, with an intriguing peppery undertone. I tried to picture Catherine in her garden tending to her flowers and how that may affect the flavors in the wine. But, I was overcome with the notion that she probably has very little time for her flower garden, tending to her vineyards the old fashioned - yet newly fashionable way. Her property and the wines from her estate are getting great press - as one of the "hottest" properties of the Southern Rhone Valley.

Will this wine make it in the shipment - too soon to tell!