Friday, March 25, 2011

2009 Cline Ancient Vine Mourvedre


This wine starts with dark fruit, cocoa powder (like when you dump a packet of Swiss Miss in a cup and that little mushroom cloud of cocoa dust erupts) and a savory/meaty/smoky quality on the nose. More juicy dark fruit flavors (dark cherry and plum mainly) on the palate, with a latte-like creaminess and a faintly herbal note that offers a hint of Eucalyptus on the nose. The scrumptious and unusually delightful wine has a substantial mouth-feel followed by soft tannins. The mouth–feel is slightly sappy and the tannins are unobtrusive, but without leaving the wine feeling flabby and unstructured.

The 2009 Ancient Vines Mourvedre draws from some of Cline’s oldest, most historic and shyest-bearing vineyard blocks. These blocks produce fruit that is of stunning concentration. They are able to reach this concentration as a result of sensitive farming practices, and a unique cooling brand of air that flows in from the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers. By naturally restricting yields to only 2 to 3 tons per acre they are able to achieve a sublime expression of the Mourvedre fruit.
The 2009 Cline Mourvedre will pair very well with our grilled butchers steak, the cassoulet (this wine is a perfect complement to the duck confit), and the grilled top sirloin burger with cambozola.

We have had Cline Mourvedre on our list for many years; both the Ancient Vines as well as the Small Berry. The mourvedre has always been an intriguing grape, and the spicy, peppery flavors of the wine are compelling flavors to cook for. As a Bandol lover, it is wonderful to see the California winemakers strive to find the balance point to achieving Bandol characteristics with the California grapes, soil and microclimates.
We are proud to have our recipe featured on the back of this label.

From the website: In 1982, with an inheritance from his grandfather, Fred founded Cline Cellars near Oakley, California. Here, he preserved and restored many ancient vine sites to their rightful reign as premier California wine lands. In 1991, Fred and his wife Nancy relocated the winery from Oakley to the Carneros region of Sonoma County on a historic 350-acre estate with new vineyards and facilities. While much of the cool Carneros region is planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot, Fred pioneered the planting of Rhône varietals including Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne.

Mourvèdre is an exotic grape found in the Rhône and Provence regions of France, Spain and Australia. It is a key component in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and has a starring role in Bandol. Once widely planted in California (where it is often called Mataro), today only a tiny amount exists and Cline owns many of the historic ancient vines that remain. Redolent of dark plum, chocolate with a hint of oak, this juicy Ancient Vines Mourvèdre is delicious now and will age for well over a decade.

Charlie Tsegeletos, Director of Winemaking, joined Cline Cellars in 2002 and is responsible for wine-making and production for the winery’s Cline, Oakley and Jacuzzi Family Vineyards brands.

The Oakley ranch, situated 40 miles east of San Francisco, is home to Cline’s Ancient Vines - some of the oldest and most rare grapevines in California that range in age from 80 to 120 years old. One hundred and forty acres of varietals such as Mourvèdre, Carignane and Zinfandel are harvested each year. While Contra Costa is typically hot, the vines around the town of Oakley are in a viticulturally blessed sector, one that experiences daytime heat and the moderating effect of the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers, which significantly reduces the temperature at night. Cline's Mourvèdre and Carignane are planted in small blocks of gnarly, head-pruned vines in sandy soil. These growing conditions heighten the intensity of the fruit and forces the old vines to struggle to produce one to two tons per acre. The sandy soil also successfully inhibits the dreaded louse, phylloxera.

Cline’s Weed Control
Controlling weeds in the vineyard is vital. Competition with the vine for water and tangling up the fruit can cause problems at time of picking. Broadleaf weeds, existing mostly in weaker soils, have also been known to cause vineyard problems. To keep problems at bay we rely heavily on soil management. To assist in removing harmful weeds from the vineyards, we employ grazing sheep. Hand pulling weeds and an under row cultivator that uproots weeds are often used as well.

Monday, March 21, 2011

MATHIS 2007 GRENACHE, SONOMA VALLEY

MATHIS 2007 GRENACHE,  SONOMA VALLEY
 
Peter Mathis is somewhat of a local celebrity and can often be spotted either having a bite to eat at the girl & the fig or efficiently producing wine and managing Ravenswood Winery.  So what better way to learn about a wine, then ask the man who made it.  After a couple of attempts I finally met with Peter about a week ago and he shared some information about his latest release under the Mathis label, the 2007 Grenache...
The 2007 Mathis Grenache is grown on Peter’s own 7.5 acre property in the Sonoma hills.  He believes this vintage is one of his best, boasting elegant acidity and balanced fruit, a far more feminine counterpart to his 2006 release.  Peter told me that he found this wine to be “beautiful, a happy wine, not edgy or aggressive.” The flavors are reminiscent of “strawberry jam, spiced apricot, pomegranate, blackberry and a dash of white pepper (Mathis, 2010).”  Peter was adamant in his belief that even New World Grenache’s should be made with Old World, specifically Rhone considerations and characteristics, this means no new oak during the fermentation process, ever.  Peter prefers to use neutral french oak barrels, where “99% of the oak flavor is out.” The “slap-happy” aromas of ripe black cherry, dried cranberry, fennel, and a hint of spice are delectable and enticing!  The tannins are not overwhelming, but rather subtle and charming, allowing the Petite Syrah to throw in just enough spice, and the Carignane to give a nice kick of acidity.  Overall the above characteristics make the Mathis 2007 Grenache a great choice for versatile food pairing next time you are dining at the girl & fig or making dinner at home. 
 
Varietals: 81% Grenache, 10% Carignane, 8% Petite Syrah, 1% Alicante Bouchet
Vineyard: Sonoma County/ About 4 miles above The Girl and the Fig (in the town of Sonoma).
Harvest Dates:  September 24 though October 18, 2007.
Fermentation: Small, 1.5 ton open top fermentation with 3 punch downs daily, using 100% native yeast.
Aging: 28 months in Neutral French Oak (Peter Mathis never (and will not ever) use new oak barrels for his Grenache).
Acidity: 5.8 grams/liter
pH: 3.6

Alcohol: 14.4%
Production: 888 cases

Peter Mathis is the head winemaker at Ravenswood, where he began his career in 1990. 2004 was his very first release of his wine under the new Mathis label. Luckily for us, Peter has always been intrigued and inspired by the wines from the Southern Rhone Valley. He also has a specific passion for Grenache; "its unique, bold and juicy quality and almost unparalleled ability to express truly bright fruit characteristics" convinced him to plant it on his Sonoma Valley property in 1999.