Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Baxter Carignan, 2006 Caballo Blanco, Mendocino

One of  best kept secrets in Mendocino County is the many vineyards of old-vine Carignan scattered among the newer plantings.  The Caballo Blanco Vineyard is a prime example of the terrific quality of fruit found in these unique forgotten vineyards.  Nestled on the gentle slope leading up from Robinson Creek in a small valley near Ukiah, these vines are nearly 70 years old. Aldis and Nancy Baltins show their commitment to the quality of the vineyard by dry-farming and using Organic practices to enhance the terroir and intensity of these old vines.

Known for bright red fruit and high acidity, Carignan is typically used in its Southern Rhône birthplace to enhance blends.  However, with natural low yields and balance that come with age, the Caballo Blanco Carignan produces a wine of immense depth and flavor from this nearly forgotten varietal.  The nose is powerful and intricate with aromas of rose petal, Violets, cherry syrup, tobacco leaf.  Equally as intense, the mouth is layered with black cherry, raspberry, plum, and cola.  A rich round mouthfeel, balanced with bright fruit and acidity, give this wine the duality of being enjoyable young as well as the ability to age.  (from their website)

In 2002, two generations of our family came together to create BAXTER, highlighting the very best in North Coast viticulture. Winemakers by trade, Phil Baxter Senior and Phil Baxter Junior, produce handcrafted single vineyard wines focusing on the Anderson Valley and surrounding Mendocino appellations.

Known primarily for their Pinot Noir, the pair combine over fifty years of experience, producing wines naturally, applying instinct and using old-world techniques. Together, father and son strive to craft wines with the greatest expression of ‘terroir’ and purity of fruit, reflecting the unique identity of each vineyard source. The Baxter family purchased 24 acres on Greenwood Ridge about ten years ago, and the first thing they did was put in a winery. This is noteworthy because it’s not often that someone would buy property and outfit the winery before planting grapes. But the Baxters have a long tenure of winemaking. Phil’s father, also named Phillip has been in the wine business in Napa Valley for nearly 40 years. He first worked at Krug and then Souverain when it was in Napa and he helped start Rutherford Hill Winery, where he was chief winemaker for ten years. Phil, Sr. has had his own brand Philippe-Lorraine in Napa Valley since 1989. Phil, Jr. grew up in vineyards.

The Baxter’s entree into Mendocino County came when they leased the Mendocino Hill vineyard on Old River Road south of Ukiah. About ten years ago the Baxters found this lovely spot with a 120 year old farmhouse and a 1400-square foot redwood building.

Phil, Jr. studied winemaking at the University of California at Davis. He is Influenced by the flavors of  the Northern Rhone and Cote Roti,” says Phil, “I let the wines make themselves as much as possible.” For the most part Phil ferments the grapes on their natural yeasts and leaves the wines unfined and unfiltered. He wants to take advantage of the grapes from each vineyard and “let nature do its thing, allowing the individual fruit characteristics to shine.” Baxter makes about 3000 cases of handcrafted wines

Carignane is a grape that originated in Spain and was later transplanted to the New World. Carignane is predominately used in blending with Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Mourvedre, and Merlot. This grape is noted for high alcohol, high tannins, and a deep purple color.