Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Donelan, 2009 Venus, Dry Stack Vineyard

“Venus” is a refreshing, lovely blend of 90% Roussanne and 10% Viognier, once again primarily from Dry Stack Vineyard in Bennett Valley. 

Dry Stack Vineyard is a cool vineyard that ripens the Roussanne very slowly. The grapes were harvested at a potential alcohol of 12%. Viognier from Kobler Family Vineyard was added to bring a “lift” to the aromatics along with a touch more depth to the mouth feel. Those looking for low alcohol offerings will love the 2009 Venus. One would never believe that based on the intensity of flavor.  

Named after Venus, the goddess of both love and fragrance, this wine had a lot of great floral flavors.

This wine, with its aromas of beeswax, lily, and freesia, is complexly flavored but without the overbearing weight of a typical Roussanne. The 2009 Venus exhibits crisp, fresh, delicate but impressively intense notes of lychee nuts, caramelized citrus, spring flowers, fresh pears and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied with lively acidity as well as an exotic perfume and a dry, zesty style, I would recommend drinking it on the early side because of its exceptional aromatics. Great dry finish and a minerality on the back end.

The moderate 2009 season promoted freshness and structure, placing the fulcrum (point) of the mouth feel in the support of acidity. The Donelans’ describe their philosophy of tension in winemaking in the following way; “This season, more so than many recent vintages, allowed us to preserve tension without sacrificing substance. Tension is the wire from which all in wine is hung; tension without substance is tart, light, and wanting; substance with no tension can be obtrusive, if pleasurably broad. But tension with substance is structured, supple (even plush), and produces a more enticing wine than any other combination.” 

From QLI website: Not that it is a problem, but a winery in a business park in Santa Rosa really seems far far away from the multi-million dollar palaces of Napa. However, a walk into the "winery" makes you realize that there is actual work going on here. Its not just perfectly polished casks and shiny floors. People go about tasting and assembling wines and whatever else needs to be done. What you probably would not imagine is that these wines are some of the highest rated Rhone Rangers to come out of California.

However, things here started with a different name about 10 years ago. Pax was the name of the winery, named after Pax Mahle the previous winemaker. He made wines that were rather big, if not over the top and quite delicious. However, since around 2007 things have changed drastically. The name of the winery has changed to Donelan Wines, the owners' name and a new winemaker has come on board. The young man now in charge is Tyler Thomas, who makes wines that would astonish more than one of us. 

Bennett Valley & Dry Stack Vineyard
Bennett Valley's climate, soils and history, make it totally unique in California - and probably the entire new world. Bennett Valley is one of the newest and smallest AVA's in the US. The cool, marine climate, combined with volcanic soils, give the wines produced from Bennett Valley a unique personality not found anywhere else.

For 3,000 years Bennett Valley was occupied by the Miwok and Pomo Indian tribes. They lived and hunted in the area, collecting obsidian from Bennett Peak and used it to make tools or to trade with other tribes.

As European settlers grew in number (and the Native Americans were wiped out by European diseases) Bennett Valley became an important agricultural center for Sonoma County, growing a wide variety of crops- including wine grapes. it's hard to think of now of sleepy Bennett Valley as a thriving area, but in 1850's even Jack London was drawn to the area for its beauty - and its wine.

 Isak de Turk was the most famous of many vineyard and winery owners in Bennett Valley producing over 100,000 gallons of wine a year in 1900. There were twice as many acres of grapes in production in Bennett Valley in 1900 than there are now and at least 6 times as many wineries. Phyloxera and prohibition ended grape production. Most of the farming moved away as transportation improved to the point they could no longer compete with larger farms. Farm crops were replaced by cattle in the 50's and 60's and today all that is left of Bennett Valley vibrant past are the foundation of a winery, the Grange Hall, the post office building and a few other odds and ends.

Eventually grapes returned to Bennett Valley in the 1970's when Dave Steiner planted his ranch on Sonoma Mountain. though the late 70's and ealry 80's several vineyards were planted and Matanzas Creek Winery was established. There was a long lull in planting in until a mini-boom of planting occurred in the late 1990's and early 2000's.