Domaine de Nizas, 2006 Languedoc-Roussillan, France

The Domaine de Nizas was acquired in 1998 by John Goelet with the collaboration of Bernard Portet, co-founder of Clos du Val in Napa Valley. A visionary, who had by the 1970s the idea of ​​making great wines using the world's best soils. John Goelet an American of French origin, a direct descendant of the family Guestier (traders in Bordeaux), has always had a traditional wine-based finesse and elegance. He had already created Clos du Val in Napa Valley (California), Taltarni in Victoria (Australia) and Clover Hill in Tasmania.  

Domaine de Nizas is located in the South of France, on the outskirts of the village of Nizas near Pézenas in the heart of the Languedoc region. Located 20 miles from the Mediterranean Sea, the exceptional terroir of Pezenas as ideal for creating high quality wines, the traditional way, which express the character Mediterranean climate with low rainfall and dry, warm summers.

On a manually tended 200-acre vineyard, the estate is known for handcrafted limited-production wines. Their goal is to serve as a model in terms of elegance, complexity, balance and aging ability among Mediterranean wines. The winery crafts boutique-style, artisanal wines and emphasizes sustainable agriculture.

Winemaking in the Languedoc region in the south of France began as early as the 5th Century B.C.E., when Greeks planted vineyards along the coast near the city of Narbonne. Those ancient vintners no doubt realized that the region’s soils were special. The winery’s terroir offers a unique mosaic of three soil types. These soils are deep and provide excellent drainage while retaining moisture at root level, ensuring vines fully ripen without water stress.

The Villafranchian (pebbles, river gravel soil), often found in the Chateauneuf du Pape area of the Southern Rhone Valley, preserves the freshness of flavors and produces elegant and velvety tannins.  This soil type brings finesse and structure to the wines grown at Nizas, as well as a good acidity that allows the wine to age. It produces aromas of chocolate and coffee in Syrah.

The Basalt, a type of volcanic flow unique to the Pézenas area, creates fine, mineral aromas and elegant structure with flavor sensations of spice and licorice.

The Marne Calcaire (limestone-clay) when planted with Syrah, results in more powerful wines with red berries aromas.

70 percent of the Domaine de Nizas acreage is classified as Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Coteaux du Languedoc. The average age of the vines is 20 years, ranging from recently planted Syrah to 60 year-old Carignan. The varietals used in Domaine de Nizas wines include Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache in the AOC category as well as Syrah, Carignan, Viognier and Muscat Petit Grain in the Vin de Pays category.

Domaine de Nizas has been certified by the Bureau Veritas, an independent government bureau, which strives to protect the health of consumers and respect the environment. Domaine de Nizas obtained its sustainable agriculture certification in 2003 as a result of pioneering efforts to farm sustainably since their inception in 1998.

Domaine de Nizas practices sustainable agriculture by:

The vines are worked manually and a decisive approach is taken towards pruning, bud removal, lifting the wires, and if required, removing excess grapes.

The plantation of the vineyard with a long term view, conserving old vines with high quality potential such as our Carignan of 55 years old.

Favoring the biological life of the soils by using ploughing and grass rather than herbicides

Tracing each bottle of wine to a specific vineyard plot in order to more effectively control quality and segment any bottle variances to its origin in the vineyard

Minimally using selective fungicides and insecticides to conserve natural predators of vine parasites

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY

Grapes are harvested at optimum ripeness with a good balance of sugar and acidity. The trellised vines are machine harvested, however, the young vines and old vines are hand-picked. Transport of the grapes in tipping trailers or small crates for the hand-picked fruit to assure good condition of the grapes from the vineyard (white grapes are protected from oxidization).

The cellar is situated at Usclas d’Hérault (5 to 10 km from the vineyards), this former apple warehouse transformed into a winery offers a well-adapted solution for vinifying, ageing and warehousing wines. Located on 3000 m² on the edge of the village, the 1300 m² building was renovated and transformed in May in time to receive the harvest in 2001.

Once the grapes arrive at the winery the grapes are de-stalked (with the exception of the Carignan to be vinified under carbonic maceration) and gently put into tanks. Maceration is carefully controlled in order to naturally enhance the work that has already been done in the vineyard shooting for deep colors, intense and pure aromas, full-bodied and soft tannins.

After 15 to 25 days on the skins, the grapes are pressed and the resulting wine is then graded according to the quality of the press. The wines pass into oak barrels to complete the malo-lactic fermentation. The oak ageing of part of the wine to be included in the final blend aims to enhance the Mediterranean character of our wines without dominating it. The wines aged in tanks are regularly pumped over.

After 9 to 12 months, the wines are pumped over and blended in preparation for the bottling, when they are lightly filtered. They are then aged in bottle in our air-conditioned warehouse awaiting their launch onto the market.

Description and praise for the wine:

Domaine de Nizas 2006 Coteaux du Languedoc
This is a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. This wine is deep garnet in color, with fragrant aromas of blackberries, bilberries (European blueberries) and spices. The distinctive herbal notes commonly found in wines around the Mediterranean called garrigue—lavender, sage, rosemary and wild thyme—speak to the wine’s regionality and terroir. The palate is well-balanced and clean, becoming round and full-bodied, with soft, ripe tannins and a long finish. Enjoyable now or age for up to five years in a cool cellar. 

Wine Spectator - This elegant red, with interesting hints of juniper and savory herb to the red fruit flavors. Well-structured and balanced, with a succulent finish. Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. Drink now through 2014. Score: 90. —Kim Marcus, September 30, 2010.

2005 Domaine André Brunel Cuvée Sabrine, Côtes du Rhône Villages

For the last 90 years the Brunel Family has been making wine in France’s famous Rhone valley region. Andre, the maker of this particular wine joined the family business in 1971, becoming the third generation in the Brunel family to follow the tradition of wine making. Andre himself has been responsible for making the wine from the Brunel Estate a renowned and sought after treat, as he has drastically improved the quality of wines, and given the Brunel Domaine a world class name. Andre Brunel’s wines have been known for the past 20 years to be of high quality and to have a very dependable production of Rhone valley wine.

The Estate today covers 80 hectares, with vineyard holdings throughout the southern Rhône valley. The Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc is produced from grapes grown in the Becassonne vineyard, which is located in Sorgues, 6km south of Châteauneuf du Pape. The Vaucluse vineyard is located on the banks of the river Aigues on the famous 'Plan de Dieu' terroir between Orange & Vaison, boasting vines of 30-40 years old. The Sommelongue vineyard is just north of Orange and some 10km north of Châteauneuf du Pape. The famous Les Cailloux vineyard stretches 18 hectares in AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 

The 2005 Andre Brunel Cuvee Sabrine, is a red blend of Grenache 80% and Syrah 20% which contributes to this wines complexity, remaining true in tradition of a typical French style wine. Also, this red blend is a Côtes du Rhône Villages wine, meaning it is considered even better quality than the well known Côtes du Rhône wines.

Body: Medium to Full
Color: Ruby Red
Wine: Domaine André Brunel Cuvée Sabrine
Variety: Côtes du Rhône Villages
Vintage: 2005
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 90

Tasting Notes:
As this wine opens up is reveals a nose of ceder and pepper. There is also a bit of vanilla, cherry, and a bouquet of herbs on the nose. The bright fruit flavors that first hit the tongue are full, yet well balanced and not overwhelmingly fruity. This wine starts out with cherries and strawberries which are smooth and silky on the tongue, nice and slightly acidic, then becomes spicy and peppery in the middle, with a very long and lavishing dark chocolate finish.

“André Brunel has always been one of the most progressive and brilliant proprietors of Chateauneuf du Pape and the good news is that he has purchased 40 hectares (that’s over 100 acres) of high-class Cotes du Rhône vineyards near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, so we can expect to see larger quantities of serious wines emerge.” Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (169) February 2007

2005 Domaine De Fontsainte Carignane

Yves Laboucarié established Fontsainte in its current incarnation in 1971 - though his family's links to winemaking in Boutenac date to the 17th century. He inherited vines, bought parcels and became a Corbières pioneer of quality - being among the first to practice carbonic maceration, harvest by hand, and age wines (using 600-litre casks). 

Bruno represents the current generation of the Laboucarié family managing their property, Domaine de Fontsainte, in the appellation of Corbières.  He took the reins from his father Yves who remains very active at the domaine. Bruno’s grandfather died this year at the age of 102.5 years, one year younger than their vineyard they call La Demoiselle. - Kermit Lynch Website

Domaine de Fontsainte is located in the heart of the Corbières’ one of the appellation’s most beautiful and beneficent terroirs. Fontsainte's intensely sunny, gently sloping, south south-east facing vineyards shelter from cold north-east winds on the flank of a 500-hectare pinewood massif. The domain dominates the landscape around the hamlet of Boutenac, enjoying panoramic views. Fontsainte’s vineyards, just 90m in altitude, benefit from a pristine environment (far from industrial or urban developments) plus alternating Mediterranean and oceanic influences.

The name Fontsainte ('the saint’s fount') comes from the nearby 12th century Hermitage of Saint-Siméon, who became the patron saint of Boutenac. Two chateaux dominated the landscape in the middle ages: Fort Haut and Fort Bas. Only the latter remains today - it’s now the headquarters of the Corbières’ winegrowers syndicat.

Body: Medium to full
Color: Ruby Red
Aroma: Initially there are hints of fresh cherries and blueberries, but the sweet earthy cocoa powder and subtle licorice quickly takeover. A well balanced red wine with delicate tannins and slightly acidic finish.
Blend: 70% Carignan; 20% Grenache; 10% Syrah
Eat with: Half Roasted Chicken or the Grilled Butchers Steak

Vineyard - Fontsainte is many vineyard parcels,(La Demoiselle, Les Oliviers, Le Four, Le Petit Nice...) each with its own particularities. The most celebrated is La Demoiselle (the official geological survey name), which gives its name to their wine La Demoiselle - its Carignan vines celebrated their 100th birthday in 2004.

Fontsainte's diversity of parcels allows us to maximize the affinities between soil type, aspect, micro-climate and grape variety - to make great terroir wines. Recent replantings - including Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache Gris - have all benefited from exhaustive geology studies of Fontsainte's various parcels' soil structure.

Since Fontsainte's establishment in 1971, vineyard work has been environmentally-sustainable and driven by the credo: "great wines are made in the vineyard". strict pruning to old vines, new vines are trellis-trained; treatments are restricted to a minimum (about half of what's typical), localized and not systematic; harvesting is entirely by hand, using small crates.

Vinification: Innovation is a tradition at Fontsainte. They were among the first to practice carbonic maceration (vinifying whole grapes) and barrel aging. For them, innovation means looking forward - with thermo regulated 150 hl stainless steel vats - and backward - with traditional 200 hl cement vats, whose thermo stability is legendary. Every possible operation in the winery is gravity-fed, the cellars were designed to incorporate this advantage. - From the Domaine de Fontsainte Website

2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose

Domaine Tempier has been the leading Bandol name for decades. Tempier's owners, the Peyraud family, almost single-handedly brought the wine world's attention to the Bandol appellation. Their wines have always been flamboyantly rich and powerful, but recent vintages have been sweeter and fleshier. Domaine Tempier offers an earthy, dense rosé with the texture of a red wine. A distinctly powerful style of rosé that matches well with grilled meats and hearty fish courses.

Kermit Lynch has been importing the Tempier rosé for over 30 years now.

Varietals: mourvedre, grenache
Color: bright orange pink. Almost golden salmon color.
Body: light, dry
Aromas: peach skins, nectarine, red currents, dried flowers, and smokey minerals.

The rosé is fermented in steel after a cold soak, then matured in vat for 6-8 months before bottling.

Tasting Notes: juicy red berries, pit fruit flavors, melons, cherry skins, and zesty minerals. Dry, focused and chewy, with strong finishing punch and lingering notes of talc-y minerals. Rated: 92 by Josh Raynolds, Jun 09 Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Domaine Tempier is a place in Provence, a home with its winery and vineyards, its olive trees and cypresses. It is home to a large joyful Provencal family. It is a wine. And while it must be inadvertent, one of those fortuitous miracles that embellish existence (there is no recipe for it dispensed at wine school), there is a certain vital spirit that one imbibes with each gorgeous swallow of Domaine Tempier’s wine.

Domaine Tempier is located at Le Plan du Castellet. Its vineyards stretch over three different communities- Le Castellet, Le Beausset and La Cadière. The plots of land are thus far apart and require extra work. But the soil of these different areas yield distinctive cuvées -Spéciale, Migoua, Tourtine and Cabassaou - as well as interesting and complex blends for white, rosé and red wines.

Domaine Tempier lies in the heart of the vineyard boundaries. It already existed during the reign of King Louis XV, and the "bastide" was built on the family's property in 1834. The Domain has remained a family owned estate since 1834.
In 1885, it obtained recognition with a first gold medal.
In 1880, after the phylloxera epidemic had ruined the French wine trade, Léonie Tempier began the renewal by having her vineyard completely replanted on root-stocks, and a cellar built with wooden and cement vats. However, the 1929 crash caused the wine business to plunge; the vines were partly replaced by peach and apple trees.

With the passing of Lucien his sons, Jean-Marie and François, came to run the domaine. They have maintained the property's reputation, mixing traditional practices with new, but in the absence of a willing heir Jean-Marie and François, together with their sisters, decided to put the property in the ownership of a family-run company.

This was done in 2000, and Daniel Ravier was appointed as manager of the 35 hectare estate. Today it is Ravier that you are most likely to encounter, whether he is traveling abroad to market the wines, or working at the domaine. He continues to manage the vineyards, which range in age from 20 to 50 years, along straightforward organic lines, without fertilizer or other chemicals. The soil is ploughed to discourage weeds, and there is a green harvest to control yields which are typically 30-35 hl/ha.

The harvest is 100% manual and the fruit is fully destemmed before temperature-controlled fermentation. The reds are fermented in steel or today possibly also in concrete, these latter vats having been installed in 2007. The wines will macerate in vat and undergo malolactic and blending in tank, before spending 18-20 months in large foudres of varying size and also material, with some oak sourced from as far away as Austria. The end results, bottled without filtration or fining, are wines of interest which are, at all levels, worthy of bottle age. obtained from www.thewinedoctor.com

2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé (France, Provence, Bandol)
Orange rind, wild strawberry, minerals and salty sea breeze aromas jump from the glass of the 2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé and in the mouth, it has beautiful freshness paired with sweet fruit, a round, full texture and a long finish. While this doesn’t show the fruit of the ‘07, it’s a fantastic Rosé to drink over the next year or two. (91 pts.) The Rhone Report

Allain Graillot, 2007 Crozes Hermitage, France

Alain Graillot founded his Domaine in Crozes-Hermitage in 1985, and rapidly became one of the most in-demand producers in the Northern Rhone for his exuberant, robust, and complete Syrah-based wines. Alain owns 50 acres of 30-year-old Crozes-Hermitage vines on the flat alluvial plain between the Rhône and Isère rivers, in well-draining soils of sand, gravel, and stones. He also has two tiny parcels in St. Joseph, from which he makes a slightly fresher, more early-drinking wine than the remarkable Crozes-Hermitage that constitutes the majority of his production.

Alain harvests by hand and works organically, employing whole-cluster fermentation and aging the wines primarily in 1-to-3 year old barrels purchased from some of the top estates in Burgundy. Graillot’s wines are structured, but still very appealing and approachable in their youth, and their longevity is truly remarkable…

Area: Crozes Hermitage, France
Blend: 100% Syrah
Average age of the vines: 25 years old (some of the Hermitage vines are now 80 years old)
Soil: Around Pont de l'Isère, the soil is formed from alluvial deposits of sand, gravel, rocks and stones.Despite being flat, it drains exceedingly well. The Hermitage holdings (just .12 hectares) are on hard granite slopes.
Average No. cases/year: 5000
From the importer Michael Skurnik’s web page/ --KL Wines

"Alain Graillot's estate is the source of some of the best Crozes-Hermitage on the market. His vineyards, on the flat plains north of Valence, produce Syrah that goes into varietally acurate, typical, food-friendly red wines. (wineaccess.com)

"Alain Graillot, Crozes Hermitage 2007 In the nose you sense the classic black pepper along with a meatiness and herbal character, perhaps hinting at rosemary and thyme. In the mouth this is a structured Syrah, acidic and tannic, delicious and long." (Ray Johnson)

Rhones Vignobles - A taste for wine, a taste for people
In the beginning, what brought them together was a taste for wine. A taste for authentic wine respectful of its terroir. And also a keenness to talk about it together to their customers in France and beyond. Then over the years - 17 already - Rhône Vignobles has established its philosophy with impeccable style, providing background music that gives the group an upbeat tempo. It is a philosophy with a natural bedrock: a taste for other people, period. They will all, without exception, tell you of the humanism that permeates the group. Rivalry is never an issue; among them, what matters is friendship, esteem, trust, sharing and emotions. They will all describe the strength they derive from moving forward as one. Alone, they would sometimes have stopped progressing or simply not have dared to. But as a group, nothing has checked their momentum – far from it! If one of them knows or implements something that another is unaware of, sharing and advising is not a problem. If one has a veteran’s experience, he will readily let the most recent arrival tap it. They travel together, discover new consumers together, visit other estates together, attend technical lectures together, taste their wines together, get together at each other’s homes to toss ideas around, party together... This is their life, and they shrug off its constraints. Is it all down to good fortune? No, just the desire to succeed as a group, as they have succeeded in their lives as wine growers. 

At Rhône Vignobles, some growers are organic and have the label, others are but do not, while others still are currently being certified. Some apply or are trialling biodynamics. Others, meanwhile, work to culture raisonnée principles. To be more precise, they all refuse to be confined by a grape-growing format. They cultivate their vines sensibly, mindful – as good, eco-friendly citizens – that soils must be respected and the environment protected. Revolutionaries, no. “Terroirists”, certainly. One day they will hand down their viticultural heritage, and not for anything would they bequeath asepticised land. They just want to see how happy their children are, breathing earth that is fresh and alive.

One of nature's activists
By the time you leave Alain Graillot, everything you imagined about him has been set straight. A hard-core organic grower? Pragmatic, rather, never accepting a label that would padlock his methods. Years ago, he was an engineer in the agrochemical industry. That part of his past subsequently saved him lots of time: no weedkillers, no pointless treatments. A self-assured man? A perpetual observer of nature, let’s say, because he feels it is “the basis of agriculture”. The previous owner of his estate worked all the vines by hand, they were well rooted. When he bought it in 1988, Alain Graillot could not imagine doing otherwise. A man backed by his reputation? Let’s say he never claims to know it all; he always listens to others, even with 20 years under his belt. With his son Maxime, now working alongside him, he has “gained and learned a great deal”. An intransigent man? Exacting, let’s say. Each morning, he happily heads off to his vines, repeating that he’s going to “make some good wine” and that he will never let down his Burgundy grower friends, “they’ve been there since day one, and we’ll never be ashamed of their help”. A partisan? Let’s say committed to keeping his freedom of choice: joining an anti-GM crop group is his way of flouting the rules laid down by the great powers of the food industry. A traditional father? Let’s say anxious to pass on his artisanal craft to Maxime, so that this ancestral farming expertise is never lost. By the time you leave Alain Graillot, you say to yourself that you have met a free man; that the earth is firmly anchored in his head and feet. - From the Rhone Vignobles website.

Mas Carlot, “Les Enfants Terribles” 2006

The Farmhouse Carlot is a Farmhouse Of Provence of 17th and 19th century and is located in the Twyers-side of Nimes, in the South of the Rhone valley.  Mas Carlot is situated in the south of the Rhône Valley, extending across 76 hectares of pebbly land southeast of Nîmes. Originally a 17th century farm, this beautiful estate was resurrected in the 1960's by the Blanc family—it is currently run by Natalie Blanc-Mares and her husband, Cyril Mares of the neigbouring and equally reputable property, Mas Bressades.  Nathalie took over the property from her father Paul-Antoine Blanc in 1998.

"The appellation of Costières de Nîmes used to be considered part of eastern Languedoc but the climate, soil, topography and wine are far closer to those just over the river in the Southern Côtes du Rhône. It is a region with an ancient and glorious viticultural past dating back to the Greeks, who planted the first vines there. The Romans then developed this into a burgeoning wine trade whilst building the Pont du Gard and the amphitheatres of Nîmes and Arles. Over the last ten years this region has undergone a transformation that has witnessed the emergence of a younger generation of innovative and modern wine growers who are generally producing smaller yields and far better quality wine. It is now a region very much on the up and is widely recognized as a great source of excellent value wine." from the vineyards direct website

"The vineyards were planted in the 1950’s and 1960’s to the current varietals. The vines are trained using a system called Cordon de Royat, which helps maintain lower fruit production. Mas Carlot limits yields to around 45hl/ha, which is one-third below what the appellation allows. Nathalie likes to wait during harvest - picking late to obtain the maximum maturity for each grape varietal.  This Cuvée was created for the first time with the 2003 vintage.  This is a selection of really good old vines Mourvèdre and Syrah. The Mourvèdre was aged in barrels for one year.

This excellent estate in the Costieres de Nimes continues to turn out some superb bargain-priced wines that consumers should seek out for relief from increasingly higher prices as well as the weak dollar. The 2006 red wines all reveal zesty acidity, beautiful pure fruit, perhaps not the structure of the 2005s, but they are more friendly."   The Importer's notes; Robert Kacher Selections

Winemaker Nathalie Blanc-Mares best describes her wine; "This special cuvee was inspired by the spirit of our children, Blanche, Eugene, Olympe & Alexander. Along with my husband Cyril Mares, winemaker of Mas des Bressades, and importer Bobby Katcher, we've created a wine that honors their individuality and the richness of their originality.  This blend of old-vines Mourvedres and Syrah was aged both in tank and in oak barrels. Like our children, the charm of this wine is found in its complexity."

Blend:  50% Mourvedre, 50% Syrah
Production:  Not much was made.
Body:  medium - full bodied
Aromas: blue fruit
Color: dark purple

Tasting Notes:  This is a hearty wine with lots of spice and elegance. It unites plum and berry preserves with a raw meat character for an unforgettable juxtaposition. there are hints of herbs, cocoa powder and vanilla.  It is round, yet compact in the mouth.

"Dark and brooding in character, with lots of underlying energy, this showcases the pure blue fruit aromas that seem to be part and parcel of both good quality Mourvedre (Boysenberry, black raspberry) and Syrah (freshly plucked blueberries, currants) in counterpoint with smoked meat, beef blood and wild herbs, tamed by a hint of oak-infused cocoa and vanilla. (If this wine at all resembles Nathalie, Cyril and Bobby’s children, they are an intense, serious, impactful lot!)"
excerpts from: WineSF.com Blog

Wine Advocate: “The 2006 Constieres de Nimes Les Enfants Terribles (a 50/50 blend of Mourvedre and Syrah) offers oodles of fruit along with superb purity and freshness and a medium-bodied, savory luscious personality. Enjoy it over the next 4-5 years. Score: 89.” – Robert Parker, February 2008.

2006 Domaine La Barroche, Grenache, "PURE", CNdP, France

I last saw Julien at the tasting this past March during the Decouvertes du Rhone. Once again I was blown away by his current vintage of PURE (having tasted the 2004 two years prior). We spoke for a few minutes and I actually asked him to marry me right in front of his mother (thinking I could only drink one wine for the rest of my life it could be the PURE for sure)! We recently put this on the list and I will be happy for anyone who orders it! (Though save some for me.)

Good words: Christian and Julien Barrot’s Domaine La Barroche burst on the wine scene with very good 2004s, and sensational 2005s, especially the out-of-this-world 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure. The Pure cuvee is made from 100% old vine Grenache planted in sandy soils in Pointu and Grand Pierre, not far from the sandy soils of Rayas. It is aged totally in old wood foudres. Robert Parker

This is indeed 100% old vine Grenache, which is uncommon for a Chateauneuf du Pape but is allowable. The wine is elegantly structured with multiple layers of fruit, spice, and classic earthiness of CDP. Intense, jammy kirsch liqueur and raspberry characteristics are followed by a voluptuous wine with supple tannin, and, as the name suggests, a “pure” style.

This is a stunningly rich, opulent Chateauneuf to drink during its first 12-15 years of life. With over 30 acres of vines in Chateauneuf du Pape, this relatively new estate, run by Christian and Julien Barrot, has served notice that they are intent on making high quality wines. The Pure has been compared to being as close to a great vintage of Rayas as one will.

Body: medium
Color: garnet red
Aromas: opulent and rich aromas of boysenberry, ganache, and blueberry, with a floral backbone

From their website: In 2002 the son of Christian, Julien joined his father and wanted to give a broader scale at the domain. He had then completed studies in winemaking and business. He wants to do something more than just sell the wines to a negociant and is a typical representative for the young well educated generation in Chateauneuf du Pape full of self-confidence and devoted to go his own way, well aware of the traditions you have to follow and thankful to his forefathers who left him fields with healthy vines. It will be interesting to follow what he can achieve with his will to work hard and his drive to do something new.

The domain has 12,5 hectares in Chateauneuf du Pape. The average age is 60 years old, but 1/3 of the vines are more than 100-year-old Grenache. This is the case for the 1,6 hectare vineyard at Grand Pierre. This parcel is free of pebbles and with sandy red soils located at the slopes. At Palestor is 2,3 hectares with 100-year-old Grenache. There are also parcels with young vines and 10 percent of the belonging is not yet in production because of the young vines.

More Good Words: Dark, with an ample core of black cherry, raspberry and red plum fruit, layered with spice and toast notes. The finish shows nice pure fruit and minerality. Wine Spectator

Eat with: duck confit, organic escarole, rice beans, applewood bacon, roasted garlic purée & herbed olive oil

Website: http://domainelabarroche.net/pure.html

2008 Maison Bouachon, Le Rouviere, Tavel

The name “La Rouvière” comes from the Provencal word “Rouve” meaning a little stream. The Maison Bouachon “La Rouvière” is one of the best representatives Rosé in the appellation. This Tavel is made from both white and red grapes, all of which are carefully picked and sorted, vinified separately, and then blended for the final product.

The vineyard is planted in a sunny area and exposed to the ‘mistral’. Vines are planted on two kinds of soil, the first is covered by Lauzes (white limestone), and the other one is clay covered by round quartzite stones. Clay permits a slow and regular restitution of useful water for grape berries elaboration.

The processing consists in selection of parcels: old Grenache (70 years old) and others younger (30-40 years old), best exposures, low yields. Grapes are harvested by hand and rigorously sorted out. Each grape variety is vinified separately after total de-stemming. Berries macerate 12 to 24 hours for an optimum extraction of aroma and color. The alcoholic fermentation keeps going from 8 to 10 days with slow temperature (between 18 to 20 degrees).

Varietals: 50% Grenache, 15% Bourboulanc, 10% Cinsault, Carignane, Clairette

Body: light to medium
Color: raspberry pink
Aromas: raspberry, red currant, pink grapefruit, white flower

From their website: In 1898 Maison Bouachon the winery was born. This family started out as barrel makers in Chateauneuf-du-Pape before deciding to actually fill the barrels with wine.

During the first half of the 20th century, Maison Bouachon was immersed in the viticultural tradition of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Over time, the Maison became familiar with the diversity of regional vines and terroirs while establishing strong ties with local winegrowers. Having gained a foothold in the region, Maison Bouachon continued developing its winemaking skill with the acquisition of barrel chais during the 50s: this included mastering the vinification process as well as perfecting the delicate art of blending and the aging.

Good words: “France has a long tradition of rosé, particularly in the south. The southern Rhone even has an appellation devoted to rosé: Tavel. A good example is the 2008 Maison Bouachon "La Rouviere" Tavel, with its bright raspberry and cranberry flavors and hints of watermelon and white pepper. By Laurie Daniel for the Mercury News 06/09

Eat with: duck confit, garlic & parsley roasted French fingerling potatoes, frisée salad

Website: http://www.maisonbouachon.com/

2007 Francois Villard Les Contours de Deponche Viognier

At his tiny Domaine, no expense is spared in the production of his stunning wines from the lowering of yields in the vineyards to the purchase of top quality new wood barrels each year. The Condrieus are made in a late-picked, relatively full style whilst retaining a mouthwatering mineral intensity, while the red St Joseph is a massive, yet fine-grained, wine that could forgivably be mistaken for Côte Rôtie.

Body: medium
Color: yellow
Aromas: soft peach, white flower, orange blossom

What makes this wine so stunning is that it is made from younger Viognier in the Condrieu region known for its rich and complex wines. Francois Villard is a highly energetic, passionate winemaker with a background as a chef. He began making wines in 1989 and has not stopped moving since. He also owns a restaurant in Ampuis.
“Francois Villard makes one of the northern Rhone's most stunning Condrieus, but this talented young vintner also makes a haunting wine called "Les Contours de Deponcins," which is made from the Viognier grape but doesn't carry the Condrieu appellation. A vin de pays made from younger Condrieu vines, it is a little less rich than his official Condrieu, yet beautifully balanced, floral and elegant.” LA TIMES

Passion Fruit: François Villard worked as a chef for a time, and is himself a solid menu whose specialities are fricassée of independence, carpaccio of energy, gratin of boldness and sauté of ambition. All liberally seasoned with intuition. Who would have thought, when he breezily started out in 1989, that nearly 20 years later he would be one of the leaders in the northern Rhône Valley? Without ever losing his look of mischief, François has pushed on with what felt, quite simply, like a calling. He has built it all through a craving for pleasure and work. Neither cranky nor fearful, he has driven his ideas to the limit – often by instinct. Over the years everything has gelled into solid experience, and the man has forged a vigneron’s well-tempered resilience. In 1993 came the first press article and his first selection in a guide: François skipped around his kitchen, as joyful as a schoolkid in a playground. The youngster had always dreamed of one day ranking among the great winemakers; he was not arrogant, it just seemed self-evident. Thus could he forever feel the “vine magic” that had beguiled him when, aged 20, he had met his first growers. Thus could he give lifelong roots to an emotion, the way he had felt when, in 1987, he had tasted the Condrieu of Lucien Desormeaux. In Poncins, where he planted his very first vine, is a big rock. Sometimes, on days of doubt, François goes to sit on it: what if the dream were to end? A classic bout of the blues for a hyperactive grower who will never depart from his true nature: he is a wine adventurer. (From the Rhone Vignobles website)

Eat with: pastis scented steamed mussels, garlic, leeks, herbs, grilled bread

2006 Domaine Faury St. Joseph Blanc

Faury Saint Joseph white is produced from 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne grapes whose vines are between 5-15 years of age grown on granite based soils.

Aromas: lemon, lemon meringue, minerality, nice tart finish
Body: medium
Color: straw yellow

St. Joseph’s, an AOC in the Northern Rhone, appellation is large for the region, comprising more than 2,400 acres of vines from the river to the hillsides and up on to the plateau above. (The slopes of Hermitage have little more than 300 acres of vines.) Many of the vineyards have a more easterly exposure, receiving less sun than those on the hillsides, along with a colder wind, resulting in grapes of an entirely different quality St. Joseph produces 90% Syrah and 10% of either Marsanne or Roussanne.

The estate of Phillipe Faury makes just six wines, two whites and four reds. The wines are far less rustic than many Saint-Joseph, the fruit ripe, and the overall results more complex.

Tasting Notes: Beautiful pear, lanolin and vanillin aromas jump from the glass, the palate has a seductive minerally and oily texture that leads to flavors of pear, honeysuckle and a well balanced toasty oak finish. A light wine, with a slightly harsh note on the finish. Notes of pineapple, cream, vanilla, and wet slate. Marsanne / Rousanne blend.

Eat with: grilled rabbit roulade, carrot purée, haricot verts, baby carrots, roasted shallots & thyme jus

Domaine de Fonfile Viognier

Domaine de Fonfile Viognier
Vin de Pays d'OC

The grapes for this Vin de Pay come from between Corbieres and Minervious in the Languedoc. The estate has been managed by the same family for over 100 years. It is located on an ancient lagoon in the Pyrenees mountain range that was once drained by Louis XIV at the end of the 17th century and was reclaimed and replanted to vines.

Aromas: bright peach, apricot, honeysuckle, and hints of minerality
Body: full
Color: straw yellow

From the Real Wine website: The Fonfile Estate has a unique geographical site, located between Corbières and Minervois, 25 miles from the Mediterranean Sea. The Fonfile Estate is on the site of an ancient lagoon amidst the hills and mountains of Languedoc, cut off from the sea during the uplift that raised the Pyrenees. The lake was drained under Louis XIV, at the end of the 17th Century, and steadily reclaimed and planted during the French Second Empire. The Domaine de Fonfile has been in the Gau family for more than 100 years. In the second half of the 19th Century, the Gau family left the Pyrenees for the more hospitable land of Languedoc. Pierre Gau was the first to settle on the land there, and planted the first vines. From 1922 on, Alfred Gau progressively improved the main winery and extended the vineyards. From 1950 on, Jean Gau, further extended the vineyards and diversified production, planting apples. He subsequently gave useful advice to Yves and Jacques Gau, his sons, oenologist and agronomist respectively, who each in his own specialist area, have since helped modernized the Estate’s winegrowing techniques, wine-making and management aiming to produce every year truly authentic wines. The Estate requires a specific set of winemaking skills where the vineyards are flooded at the end of each winter for several weeks every year, an ancestral technique which allows the vines to be grown on their own rootstock and not attached to American root stock as almost the totality of French vines. As such, the vineyard was uniquely protected from phylloxera in the beginning of the 20th Century. This gives a measure of authenticity to these wonderful wines.

Eat with: spring pea pancakes shaved carrots, yellow beets, pea shoots & carrot-ginger beurre blanc

Chateau de Lascaux

Chateau Lascaux was founded by Jean-Benoit Cavalier in 1984. Cavalier planted small vineyard plots in the gravelly soil that is separated here and there by swaths of bay trees, herb gardens, green oaks, and pines. Cavalier feels that the herbs add an interesting complexity of flavors and scents to his wines. Sheltered by the mountains from most of the cold from the north, but at an elevation where nights and occasionally breezes are cool, Cavalier found what he considers to be an ideal Mediterranean climate. The winery is currently undergoing a major transformation in their vineyard practices and moving towards biological farming since September 2006. The grapes continue to be manually picked and table sorted.

Chateau de Lascaux is located in the Languedoc Region of France near the town of Vacquieres. To the extreme north are the "Hills of the Languedoc" and at the foot of the Hills is the Cevennes limestone plateau, where the Castle of Lascaux spreads over 45 hectares.


The 2007 rosé is a blend of 40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 10% Mourvedre. The wine is aged for seven months before bottling. The color is like pale pink petals in the glass. The nose suggests anise, peach, cherry, and black currant. It is gentle and floral with a hint of spice. The flavor is full of young berries, wild thyme and a touch of anise. This wine has a medium finish with a creamy mouth-feel, with a final note a bit like menthol or anise again.

Domaine La Garrigue

As I continue to search for the right French Grenache for our first Wine Club shipment, last weeks tasting brought back a flood of emotions regarding our trips to the Rhone Descouvertes over the past few years. A combination of tender memories and a longing to return to my heart of heart favorite destination has been genuinely inspiring.

The Rhone Descouvertes is an incredibly organized wine tasting event held in the Rhone Valleys every other year. Both times that John & I went, we were invited by the Hospice du Rhone. We were to join them to prepare a dazzling meal paired with California Rhone wines for French Rhone Winemakers. This was an exceptional ten days. The wine tasting in 2005 started in the Northern Rhone in Ampuis/Condrieu and then headed south to Cote Rotie, Cotes du Rhones, Gigondas … We arrived a few days prior to the tasting to get organized for our meal, review the kitchen (very small), determine the menu, shop for food (see what was available and what was in season in March), prep in unfamiliar surroundings and then finally cook the meal for 40 impressive guests. Creating food for the wines of John Alban, Steve Beckman and Mat Garretson is a daunting task. We are enthralled by their talents and it humbles us to even attempt to create the perfect pairing that will showcase their wines. And then to actually serve our interpretation of country French food to actual Country French wine aficionados added to the already high level of stress. All in all the meal was lovely success – and our guests seemed appreciative and satiated. After the meal, the rest of the trip was a whirlwind.

Each day the Inter-Rhone organization set up a large tasting area – some were in school gymnasiums, parking lots, church halls, under tents in the vineyards, wineries and almost anywhere they could fit 500 people or more. Some days there were 1 – 2 locations and other days, 4 – 5. The valleys were dotted with large red arrows on the round rounds leading the way to the next tasting. The effort to start with white wines in the morning and pace myself throughout the day did not last long nor did the note taking efforts in the early days look more than scribbles upon return. Many of the locations were paired with a local caterer. Some meals were large buffets highlighting the specialties of the town others were small bites (tea sandwiches, tiny desserts …) and always cheese. These were educational days, networking and occasionally seeing other friends in the business.
When the day of wine tasting was finished the evening wine drinking and party began. Some nights we went to dinner at a restaurant and then ended up at a Descouvertes event and some evenings were spent in French winemakers homes with hospitality in abundance. One of the restaurants that I had almost forgotten about was Les Florets – a countryside restaurant with a long history.

Les Florets is one of the most famous restaurants and hotel in the area. It is located in a a beautiful wooded valley that is located near the rocky Dentelles du Montmirail behind the wine village of Gigondas. The property has a beautiful outdoor stone terrace under large grand trees with a view of the wooded hills above the valley. When we were there in March the terrace was closed and it was definitely too chilly to dine al fresco. I remember sitting against one of the walls of the country-style dining room (lots of knick knacks and flowered? wallpaper). Dinner was lovely – we feasted on a multi-course prix-fix tasting menu including game birds of duck and pheasant, braised rabbit and lamb, and wintery vegetables. Dinner concluded with a cheese course from the trolley.

Interestingly enough, I am telling you this story because one of the wines that we tasted last week was a Grenache blend from Vacquerayas, from the Domaine de la Garrigue – one of the oldest Domaines in the region and owned by the same family that owns the Les Florets restaurant. The Bernard family’s vines were planted in the late 1940s after the Germans left the area after World War II. Though, from reading historians’ notes, “the garrigues” or “the ruins” date back to centuries prior where the Romans were known to make wine here.

The climate in the Southern Rhone is extremely warm in the summer, with consistent temperatures in the 90’s during July and August. Because of this, rich, full-bodied, and spicy wines are to be expected. The soil is similar to that of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with massive rocks dotting the vineyards. The old bush vines of Garrigue are planted on these rocks and for most of the vineyards, there is not visible soil present, just rock. The wines are made in the traditional winemaking methods with minimal manipulation. The importance of the land itself, the rocky hillside and the hot temperatures are what the winemakers count on the show off the terroir in their grapes. The winemaking process again takes a minimalist approach with long macerations and fermentations (no stainless steel is used) and seldom pumpovers.
The 2004 vintage from Vacquerayas has a 20% blend of Mourvedre which shows up in the strong black pepper-vanilla finish. The wine is a deep purple with herbal and floral aromas and flavors. The mid palate of the wine comes through as very fruity with wild berry tastes that bounce in a berry-cherry flavor spectrum. The wine has a light, dark chocolate-lavender dry finish. Carefully crafted, this wine can afford to be aerated and/or decanted to let the strong pepper aromas tone down. Only 1000 cases were produced for the American Market and once again imported by the famed importer Eric Solomon. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate published a 91 for this wine with applause for its uniqueness and quality considering the extremely reasonable cost. Though this wine was enjoyed by our tasting panel, it did not make the cut for the club. The 2004 vintage is rare to find now, though I have spotted some of the 2005 vintage around.

In France - Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil

Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil, 2005 Cairanne

One of the most interesting aspects regarding the background of this wine is that winemaker Catherine Le Goeuil uses only organic methods to produce not only one of the great values to come out of Cairanne, but also a lovely example of a French Grenache. Her decision to become biodynamic in the vineyard has improved the quality of her wines, and apparently the birds are enjoying the natural environment so much that they sing much louder about it. These organic wines are first reflected in her 2000 vintage and she has found her methods to be successful and fruitful. These organic wines are a true reflection of the climate and terroir of the Cairanne region. Using her love for flowers, she emphasizes the aromatics of her wines - creating floral fruit and earthy fragrance.

Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil is located in the petite village of Cairanne, (a relatively unknown village) in the heart of the valley of the southern Rhône. This town is one of the original four Côtes du Rhône Villages. Wine has been made in Cairanne dating back beyond the Middle Ages. Most of the vines at Domaine Catherine Le Goeuil are over 40 years old and some date back even further. These vines are maintained to be low yielding to ensure the high quality and concentration of fruit. The grapes are harvested completely by hand.

The 2005 was full-bodied, well balanced, and aromatic. I languished on the full berry flavors, and I liked the way the wine felt on my tongue. This spicy Grenache was delicious, ripe, with an intriguing peppery undertone. I tried to picture Catherine in her garden tending to her flowers and how that may affect the flavors in the wine. But, I was overcome with the notion that she probably has very little time for her flower garden, tending to her vineyards the old fashioned - yet newly fashionable way. Her property and the wines from her estate are getting great press - as one of the "hottest" properties of the Southern Rhone Valley.

Will this wine make it in the shipment - too soon to tell!